Omnivore Atlanta

We Castleberry Hill residents have been on a lucky food and drink streak lately. Johnny Cakes, the soon-to-open Chocolate Bar and now, the No Mas! Hacienda & Cantina folks have opened Adios Cafe, a chocolate and espresso bar. The cafe serves a wide variety of homemade Mexican treats such as Panecillo (corn muffins), freshly made churros, Mexican truffles infused with tamarindo and savory empanadas filled with chorizo, eggs, black beans, peppers and cheese. Choose from a long list of Mexican coffee and chocolate drinks (e.g. coffee laced with cinnamon and cocoa, hot chocolate with chili de arbol and the like), Mighty Leaf teas and chilled bottles of Jarritos sodas to enjoy alongside the pastries and desserts. The Cafe opens at 7 a.m. and closes at 10 p.m. daily. There is plenty of parking and ample seating in the vividly adorned cafe attached to the equally vibrant restaurant and furniture store. They even offer free WiFi. Stay tuned for more in an upcoming Cheap Eats…

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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There is something so deliciously primal about tearing a hunk of chicken off the bone with your bare hands, folding it into a warm tortilla with a spoonful of salsa and devouring it. What can I say? This Mexicana loves her chicken, which means I was delighted to discover El Pollo Regio (5499 Buford Highway, Doraville. 770-458-9663; 10471 Alpharetta Street, Roswell. 770-552-5466. www.elpolloregio.com).

Naturally, the “Pollos asados al carbon” (char-grilled chicken) is the thing to order. This bird soars high above the other chicken spots lining the highway because of its lip-smacking marinade. The most information I could get is that they use Achiote paste, an earthy and thick red paste made from ground annatto seeds that is normally mixed with an acid like citrus or vinegar. The juiciness of the chicken and flavor imparted by the flames charring the marinade make for, as my friend put it, “some badass chicken.”

An order of the whole chicken ($12.99) comes with a container of rice flavored with tomato broth, a bowl of smoky “Charro” pinto beans, a piquant salsa verde creamy with avocado, large chunks of sticky sweet charred onions, a fresh salsa roja, a couple of limes and a stack of locally made and all-natural El Milagro tortillas. If you don’t have the time to sit down and contend with a bone-in chicken meal, the “Taco Regio” ($4.00) is a great choice. The oversized tortilla is coated with oil and grilled to make it pliable, then filled with an abundance of finely minced grilled chicken, a layer of crema Mexicana (Mexican sour cream) and guacamole. Add a charred jalapeno, some salsa and a squirt of lime and you’ve got a one-handed meal guaranteed to satisfy.

(photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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TAQUERIA EL REY DEL TACO: Skilled matrons of the kitchen knock out fresh tortillas while gossiping and laughing. And those fresh tortillas and the exceptional salsas—both smoky roja and creamy verde—are the reason to visit. Tacos filled with chivo (goat) or cabeza (beef cheeks) are exceptional. And no table is complete without a massive goblet of vibrant red seafood cocktail studded with chopped onions and cilantro. 5288 Buford Highway. 770-986-0095.

LA OAXAQUENA TAQUERIA: The main draw for most at this perennial favorite is the large tlayuda—think Mexican-style “pizza” made on an enormous tortilla from the Oaxaca region of Mexico. Tacos—like the tender cabeza—arrive atop a large, fresh tortilla finished with a charred baby onion and lime wedge for a perfect contrast against the fatty beef. The salsa bar (Atlanta’s best) is pristine and offers a wide variety of freshly made toppings. The restaurant is expanding to a new location across the street any day now—call ahead. 6738 Tara Boulevard, Jonesboro. 770-960-3010.

GORDITA’S LA RANCHERITA: Every corn-based item is made by hand with fresh masa. Impossibly fluffy (and large) tortillas come with taco fillings such as fatty crumbled chorizo or the shredded pieces of goat barbacoa in an earthy red sauce. The gorditas are the best I’ve encountered outside of Mexico. Each is crisp on the outside for structure but has that essential layer of soft masa that tells you it’s fresh. Tip: the bakery next door sells a killer flan that is sliced to order. 2055 Beaver Ruin Road, Norcross. 678-206-0107.

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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