Omnivore Atlanta

Now it can be told – the true story of my feelings about Shaun Doty’s cooking.

Don’t worry, there’s nothing really negative about it. I have enjoyed Doty’s work ever since he was chef at Mumbo Jumbo. That restaurant, you’ll recall, had Guenter Seeger on board as consulting chef. Doty had worked for Seeger when he was chef of the Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton Buckhead.

After Doty left the Dining Room, he landed at restaurants in France and Belgium, then returned to the States. After two gigs elsewhere, he returned to run the kitchen at Mumbo Jumbo at Seeger’s behest. He then went on to open MidCity Cuisine, then Table 1280, and in 2006, Shaun’s (1029 Edgewood Ave., 404-577-4358) in Inman Park. I believe he has shared ownership in all of these restaurants except Table 1280.

So, Doty has a resume nearly as giddy as Richard Blais’, and I used to make the same complaint about him as others currently lodge against Blais — that he never stayed anywhere long enough to get really focused. Doty has a rep as something of a society dude, often showing up in pictures of convocations of the beautiful people. His restaurants have always seemed to attract that crowd and, knowing their insatiable taste for the nouveau, I’ve wondered if Doty’s peripatetic resume is a reflection of that.

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(Photo by James Camp)

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On Thurs. Oct. 9th, chef Shaun Doty is offering Inman Park Neighborhood Association members half-off on their dinners at Shaun’s (but they have to flash their Inman Park Patrol Membership Card or it’s a no-go).

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Shaun’s marks its second anniversary next week, so Wayne and I decided to visit the restaurant last Sunday to see how things were going.

We had a fantastic meal, including this entree of grilled squab served over spaghetti squash with roasted chestnuts. A particular standout was a soup of organic eggplant. If you see it on the menu, do not miss it. And do not miss the oxtail parmentier, a special, either.

Our server, Owen, was unusually knowledgeable. My ordinary questions about ingredients did not have him running back and forth to the kitchen. Ask for him.

Among the events on tap to celebrate the restaurant’s second birthday is a special dinner prepared by owner/chef Shaun Doty and “Top Chef” finalist Richard Blais. They will prepare a five-course dinner on Wednesday, Oct. 8. Cost is $65 ($85 with wine pairings). Ten percent of the proceeds will benefit the Believe in Me Foundation, which supports services for children with autism and other developmental disorders. Doty co-founded the organization.

You can learn about the other events, including a half-price neighborhood dinner, by visiting the news and events section of the restaurant’s website.

I’ll have more to say about our meal in an upcoming Grazing column.

(Photos by Cliff Bostock)

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This is from Doug Rosenbloom:

Cliff: To borrow a phrase from one of your recent posts, I ventured from my “usual
intown dining zone” to Buckhead last night for a co-worker’s birthday dinner at Nava. The hostess did not disappoint with Buckhead snobbery, and the kitchen thrice-destroyed my friend’s lamb rack. The third time they brought it out well-done instead of medium-rare as requested, my friend just gave upand ate the overpriced gyro meat. Our hapless server (think Steinbeck’s Lennie) was harmless, but entertainingly aloof.

My first visit to Shaun’s however, exceeded all expectations (except dessert, which was above average). The friendly service, wine selection, and food was so fantastic we overlooked the slow kitchen. I’ll be going back to Shaun’s, which is comfortably in my “usual intown dining zone.”

Oh my! I haven’t thought about the over-sized, foot-dragging Lennie Small of Steinbeck’s Of Mice and Men since high school. Lennie, mentally disabled, has a bad habit of killing soft, cuddly things, including women, by stroking them just a wee bit too enthusiastically. His heart’s desire is to tend a flock of bunnies but he ends up taking a bullet instead.

Buckhead is full of such people, of course. Y’all carry your guns.

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Chef Shaun Doty of Shaun’s is continuing his dinner series for those with celiac disease on Sun., July 13. The prix fixe, gluten-free and wheat-free menu is $45 and $65 with gluten-free beer pairings. Whole Foods Briarcliff will provide a gift bag with gluten-free products for diners. According to a press release:

The appetizer will feature Eggplant Salad with Poached and Spicy Vinaigrette. The intermezzo will include Fig Tempura with Sweet Potato, Vanilla and Tahini. The entree will be Vegan Zucchini Lasagna with Heirloom Tomatoes and Pinenut Ricotta. Dessert will consist of a Black Rice Pudding and Coconut Sorbet.

Call 404-577-4358 for reservations or more information.

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This just in from Shaun’s:

Chef Shaun Doty continues his monthly special dinner series catering to those with Celiac disease on the second Sunday of every month. The next dinner will be held Sunday, March 9, and will feature a prix fixe, gluten-free and wheat-free menu for $45 and $65 with beer pairings. The nightly changing á la carte menu will also be available.

The appetizer will include English pea soup with Spring garlic flan and Benton’s Smokehouse Bacon. The intermezzo will feature Scottish salmon with star anise oil, cabbage and Asian pear. The entrée will be duck leg confit with champagne sauerkraut and braised endive. Lastly, the dessert will include first-of-the-season strawberries with English double cream and vanilla sorbet.

Celiac disease is a digestive disease that damages the small intestine and interferes with absorption of nutrients from food. People who have celiac disease cannot tolerate the gluten protein, found in wheat, rye and barley. Gluten is found mainly in foods but may also be found in everyday products, such as stamp and envelope adhesive, medicines and vitamins. When people with celiac disease eat foods or use products containing gluten, their immune system responds by damaging the small intestine.

For more information, call 404-577-4358 or visit www.shaunsrestaurant.com.

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Almost 3 million Americans suffer from the autoimmune digestive disease known as celiac disease, according to the website for the National Foundation for Celiac Awareness. Celiac is triggered by gluten protein found in wheat, rye and barley, and damages the small intestine and interferes with the absorption of nutrients from food.

As someone who has battled a similar digestive illness for 15 years, I know about being perceived as a “picky” eater because there is no other option, and how a restaurant menu can be an enemy in disguise if you aren’t careful.

Now at least one night of every month celiac sufferers have a dinner menu planned just for them. Due to the success of its first gluten- and wheat-free dinner, Shaun’s will be hosting the event the second Sunday of every month. The next dinner will be Feb. 10 and will feature a prix-fixe menu for $45, and $65 with beer pairings. Check out the menu here. For gluten-free diners this event offers a little peace of mind, knowing that they will be covered from appetizers to dessert.

The NFCA website has a 15-page, downloadable Celiac Disease & Gluten-Free Survival Guide that discusses symptoms, dietary options and restaurant chains that offer gluten-free items such as Outback Steakhouse and Bonefish Grill. Find it here: www.celiacentral.org.

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Here’s some interesting news from the PR folks for Shaun’s:

On Thursday, January 13, Chef Shaun Doty of Shaun’s will host a special dinner catering to those with celiac disease. The dinner will feature a prix fixe, gluten-free and wheat-free menu paired with beers. More and more people require a special diet due to celiac disease. Chef Doty is taking on the challenge and creating a special menu all diners can enjoy.

Shaun’s will offer a prix fixe menu priced at $45 and $65 with beer pairings. The first course will be comprised of heirloom lentil soup with homemade wild boar sausage and a Green’s gluten-free amber ale, Belgium beer pairing. The second course features Atlantic cod in rice paper with basil, seaweed and ginger with a Green’s gluten-free Tripel Ale, Belgium beer pairing. The third course will be Coleman beef tenderloin with short rib marmalade and endives with a Green’s gluten-free Dubbel Ale, Belgium beer pairing. The fourth and final course will be a creamsicle with orange, Campari and Prosecco with a hot tea cocktail pairing.

“Celiac disease is very common, and as a chef, I’ve had an opportunity to learn about the disease and its unique challenges,” said Chef Doty. “Everyone should be able to enjoy a fabulous meal without worrying about their dietary restrictions.

“Celiac disease is a digestive disease that damages the small intestine and interferes with absorption of nutrients from food. People who have celiac disease cannot tolerate the gluten protein, found in wheat, rye and barley. Gluten is found mainly in foods but may also be found in everyday products, such as stamp and envelope adhesive, medicines and vitamins. When people with celiac disease eat foods or use products containing gluten, their immune system responds by damaging the small intestine.

The regular menu will also be available and all diners are welcome to enjoy this special evening.

The restaurant is located in Inman Park at 1029 Edgewood Ave. Phone 404-577-4358 for more information and to make a reservation.

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Esquire magazine has just released its annual Best New Restaurants list, picked by food and travel correspondent John Mariani, and two Atlanta restaurants made the cut: Shaun’s, headed by chef Shaun Doty, and Trois.

Fearing’s in Dallas won the magazine’s Restaurant of the Year award. Creative Loafing’s Food Editor Besha Rodell is in Dallas this weekend and will be checking out Fearing’s; look for a blog entry on her experience next week.

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Bastille Day is right around the corner … do you know where you’re celebrating?

If not, consider commemorating French independence on Saturday, July 14, with a gastronomic fete at Shaun’s (1029 Edgewood Ave., 404-577-4358) or French American Brasserie (30 Ivan Allen Jr. Blvd., 404-266-1440). Both host French-inspired Bastille Day prix fixe menus and drink specials.

Bastille Day honors the storming of the Bastille in 1789, whose fall ushered in the French Revolution. Feasting has always gone hand in hand with Bastille Day celebrations throughout history, beginning with the hefty four-day feast of the Fete de La Federation on the first anniversary of the fallen Bastille. And the feasting continues today.

At Shaun’s for $38, the menu features an appetizer of pate with rabbit and sweetbreads; an entree of chicken paillard with arugula, tomatoes and lemon; and dessert of profiteroles with chocolate ice cream and white chocolate sauce, with an a la carte menu available as well.

Drink specials include $6 French martinis and French wine by the glass.

Over at F.A.B., for $45 per person, one can tuck into a first course of either lamb tenderloin or potato and sweet onion tart; a second course of either sauteed wild bass or filet mignon; and a third course of chilled lychee soup or vanilla creme brulee.

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