Omnivore Atlanta

Smuttynose Brewing Company
Portsmouth, NH
7.7% ABV

The lengthy spring has extended the appeal of styles like maibock, the rich, malty lager that is traditionally served in the month of May. Although the month has passed, this style still holds plenty of appeal. Smuttynose’s maibock, part of its Big Beer Series, pours a beautiful, clear autumn gold with a nice two-finger head that settles slowly but inevitably, lacking any significant staying power. A tall pilsner glass really shows off the color, clarity, and slowly rising bubbles.

The doughy, earthy aroma of German malts dominates the nose, with a hint of spicy, floral noble hops in the background. The taste is sweet initially, but more like honey than sugar. Biscuity malt, tannic white grape skins, and a sweet sting of alcohol provide a firm mouthfeel. A touch of ale-like fruitiness in the center suggests honeydew melon and apple. Powdery dry grain, mildly spicy hops, and an astringent bitterness drop hard in the crisp finish, leaving the palate clean and ready for another sip.

This is a well-structured, dryish bock that strikes a nice balance of sweet malt, spicy hops, and alcohol. It lacks the complex malt character of a traditional German maibock like Einbecker, but makes up for it in drinkability and food friendliness. It may set a new standard for the style.

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A trusty old dog: Smuttynose Old Brown Dog Ale

Smuttynose Brewing Company
Portsmouth, NH
5.7% ABV

Dogs seem to be a frequent inspiration for brown ales, as evidenced by Abita Turbodog, Avery Ellie’s Brown Ale, and the new-to-Georgia Smuttynose Old Brown Dog Ale. This beer pours a clear, glowing chestnut that is just about the same color as Olive (R.I.P.), the Smuttynose mascot that graces the label. A volumionous, rocky head sits atop the body and pops and crackles down to a thin cap, leaving some fine lacing. A moderately sweet, toasted malt aroma fairly explodes from the glass, suggesting brown bread crust with an earthy spice note. There are some fruity notes of apple skins and orange, as well. The toasted bread continues in the flavor profile, along with soft crystal malts, steeped grains and a faint nutiness. A flash of juicy sweetness in the center hints of maple syrup, cocoa and toffee. The hops are subdued and vaguely tea-like, with a bit of steely tang of alcohol and a chocolately orange in the clean, dry finish. Round and smooth, with a decent heft to the body, this is a delicious take on an English brown ale, wth its emphasis on malt complexity. A perfect accompaniment to beef or sharp cheese.

(photo by Jeff Holland)

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Thank You for Your Support: Smuttynose Finestkind IPA

The name might produce a snicker, but there’s nothing silly about the first-rate beers produced by Portsmouth, New Hampshire’s Smuttynose Brewing Company. Established in 1994 by Peter Egelston and his sister Janet, the company has been gradually expanding its production to meet demand and is now being sold in Georgia. Egelston, who serves as president of Smuttynose, says that they have purposely grown slowly to avoid what happened to many craft breweries in the 90s:  capacity expanded well beyond demand and became overextended. Still, their growth has been strong enough that they plan to construct a new facility beginning next year.

The Egelstons have been at the forefront of the craft beer movement on the East Coast, having opened the Northampton Brewery in Massachusetts in 1987, now the oldest operating brewpub in New England. They opened Portsmouth Brewery, also a brewpub, in New Hampshire in 1991. When a local microbrewery went out of business, Egelston purchased the operation at auction with no marketing plan or name for his new brewery. He later settled on Smuttynose, the name of a small island off the coast of New Hampshire because it had a local connection and was “a funny, quirky name that once people got, it they would not forget it.”

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Seasons Greetings: The 5 Seasons Westside promises to be a palace of good beer and food.

If you read the paper or watch the news, you are probably thinking that 2009 will be a year to survive rather than enjoy. This doesn’t have to be the case. If good beer makes you happy, there is much to look forward to, even before the first daffodils start popping up. Here’s a look ahead.

Terrapin’s Sweet Tooth. The fourth installment in the Terrapin Beer Company’s Side Project, Dos Cocoas, should be hitting stores soon. It is brewed with cocoa powder and aged on cocoa nibs. The chocolate theme continues at the 2nd Annual Wake-N-Bake Off, where participants incorporate Terrapin’s Wake-N-Bake Coffee Oatmeal Imperial Stout into a dessert recipe. The judging takes place at Aromas in Athens on Sunday, Jan. 25. Contact the brewery at 706-549-3377 for more information. (more…)

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