Omnivore Atlanta

I lunched with three friends at Star Provisions today. The place was packed inside and out and we had quite a wait in line. I ordered this bánh mì, the popular Vietnamese sandwich of a crunchy baguette stuffed with pickled vegetables, cilantro and meat — braised pork in this case.

The sandwich was utterly delicious but the cost, $12, was  bit of a shock, considering that you can buy these on Buford Highway for a couple of bucks (though not usually made with meat of this quality). With a side of pickled beets and a bottled soft drink, my tab was about $18.

I tried to spend more by purchasing a few cookies before we left. However, the slowest sales clerk I have encountered in a long time was working the cash register alone. I finally bailed, figuring it would be better not to eat cookies, anyway.

(Photo by Cliff Bostock)

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SOUTHERN SWEETS BAKERY: Nancy Cole’s family-run Decatur dessert mecca makes decadent brownies. The word “brownie” may conjure images of diminutive treats, but there is nothing small about these monsters — they’re almost as big as a box of Raisinets. Cole’s recipe uses two types of imported chocolate, which results in an incredibly rich and sticky treat whether your preference is regular or with toasted walnuts. It’s the stuff of which fudgey brownie dreams are made of. Both choices are finished with a lacy drizzle of deep chocolate ganache to take these destination-worthy beauties over the top. 186 Rio Circle, Decatur. 404-373-8752. www.southernsweets.com.

Continue reading Mouthful

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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I lunched at Star Provisions today with my friend, Chris. He ordered the frittata (above), which I’d never tasted before. I’m getting it next time I lunch there. It’s full of creamy chevre bound by fluffy eggs and is so comforting it prompted Chris to give the peace sign, just looking at it.

As you can see (at right, in the background), he devoured it before I even got a first bite of my shrimp po’ boy, my usual favorite here. Of course, he also ordered a baguette filled with butter and prosciutto. And a cupcake. I followed my sandwich with a concha, a Mexican pastry I’d not seen there before.

Star recently added two large tables indoors. But the outdoor seating in the back is the best.

As we were waiting to place our order I asked Chris what he was doing for his mom on Mother’s Day.

“I don’t know,” he said, explaining that his father usually makes the plans.

“All I can do is spend the day feeling guilty about all the times I didn’t do anything for my mother,” I said.

“Oh, there’s no use in feeling guilty,” the girl at the register said, “send her a card. You can do that.”

“No, I really can’t,” I said. “She’s quite dead. You think when your mother is dead, the guilt will be gone too, but it’s forever.”

“Oh, well, um, uh…Will there be anything else?”

Honestly, they employ the nicest people at Star Provisions. And your mother would love anything you gave her from here.

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MAGGIANO’S LITTLE ITALY: Going to this deliciously cheesy faux Little Italy is all about the kitsch and the comfort food. Family-style eating in guilt-inducing portions abound. Disparage it for being a chain if you wish, but they make a respectable meatball — each one tender, well-seasoned and completely crave-worthy. The meatballs are immense, so one will suffice when placed atop an order of spaghetti with marinara or meat sauce. 3368 Peachtree Road, 404-816-9650; and two other metro Atlanta locations. www.maggianos.com.

Continue reading “Mouthful: Meatballs”

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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What is it? It’s a roasted-pork bánh mì from Nam. I reported recently that these sandwiches had shown up, along with pho, on the lunch menu there. I picked one up today and found the restaurant fairly crowded at 1:15 p.m. with only one person working the door and tables. She was clearly flustered, running from table to table.

The sandwich was tasty. While it’s a bit more substantial and definitely fresher than most of the Vietnamese sandwiches you find on Buford Highway, it does cost significantly more — $6.50, compared to under $3 at many places in the burbs. There’s also one made with chicken. I’ll return to sample the pho, of which there are four varieties available.

Some weirdness: Prices of other lunch dishes are very confusing. On the menu flier I picked up, more than a few of the lunch dishes are more expensive than the same dishes on the dinner menu. I have no idea. …

Thursday was a good-eating day. My friend Christopher Howe and I went to Star Provisions. He had a baguette with prosciutto and butter and I had the day’s special, roasted chicken with beet greens and rice. While the chicken leg and thigh had good flavor, they frankly weren’t pretty with their shriveled skin (served over quite tepid rice). Since the Girl Scouts have been pounding the pavement with armfuls of cookies everywhere, I had to have a smores cupcake with marshmallow icing. You’ll want two. …

After writing a post about the forthcoming Varasano’s Pizza, I was craving pizza all day yesterday, so Wayne and I dined at Fritti. We had our usual starter of fried mushrooms with truffle oil, plus a dish of fried goat cheese with arugula salad.

Wayne ordered the pizza with cotto ham and mushrooms, while I ordered the “Toscana,” featuring bufala mozzarella, peppered salami, cherry tomatoes and rosemary.

Our server warned us that the restaurant’s new  chef, Enrico Liberato (from Naples), was using a new bufala with a quite salty edge. He wasn’t kidding. I quickly adapted but the initial bite stung. Enrico, who is young and very friendly, has made other subtle changes in the ingredients.

Fritti’s remains the best pizza in town to my palate. Moreover, it doesn’t cost much more than most others. We both marveled at the intensity of flavors — from toppings to the dough itself. I can’t wait for the pizza wars to begin when Varasano’s opens.

(Photo by Cliff Bostock)

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In January of last year, Star Provisions stopped selling wine, using the space instead for upscale handbags and linens. I was pissed. Today I stopped by and was delighted to see that they are carrying wine again, in the space across from the bakery counter where they used to sell candy and chocolate. The selection is small but really well chosen, and there’s a lot of space dedicated to half bottles.

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Atlanta has witnessed numerous dining trends over the past year. But the focus on extensive charcuterie offerings at many restaurants and specialty food stores — using both in-house and imported products — is one trend we predict is here to stay.

ENOTECA CARBONARI: This little enoteca from the owners of Baraonda allows diners to build their ideal plate of Italian cured meats from a comprehensive Selezione di Salumi. Notable selections are the hard-to-find culatello, mortadella and finocchiona. 710 Peachtree St. 404-810-9110. www.enotecacarbonari.com.

HOLEMAN & FINCH PUBLIC HOUSE: The restaurant serves an ever-changing assortment of five to seven of chef Linton Hopkins’ house-cured creations — such as lonzino, coppa and pork rillettes — garnished with pickles, mustard and bread from H&F Bread Co. 2277 Peachtree Road. 404-948-1175. www.holeman-finch.com.

KROG BAR: Chef Kevin Rathbun’s Spanish-inspired tapas bar holds many treats for those looking for a Euro-style nosh. The Carne is offered à la carte so you can create a feast from a small but quality list of classic Spanish cured meats such as chorizo, Serrano ham and lomo. 112 Krog St., Suite 27. 404-524-1618. www.krogbar.com.

STAR PROVISIONS: Newly hired chef Todd Immel has already put his signature on the store’s charcuterie program with such items as a potted chicken liver mousse capped with duck fat, tangy merguez sausages with homemade harissa, ciccioli (a chunky pork terrine) and spicy sopressata salami. 1198 Howell Mill Road. 404-365-0410. www.starprovisions.com

(photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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Here are some Atlanta restaurants serving THANKSGIVING DINNER Thurs., Nov. 27th:

Atkins Park Tavern: A Family-style Thanksgiving dinner with all of the expected fixin’s. 5:30 p.m. 794 North Highland Ave. 404-876-7249. Reservations strongly recommended. www.atkinspark.com.

Chima: Thanksgiving menu offers Roasted Turkey, Cranberry Sauce, Stuffing, Turkey Stroganoff, Pumpkin Soup, and Pumpkin Pie. Diners are welcome to order from Chima’s regular Brazilian menu. $39.50.

2-8 p.m. 3215 Peachtree Road NE. 404-424-8281. www.chimasteakhouse.com.

Food 101-Morningside & Sandy Springs: A three-course, Southern-style Thanksgiving dinner including a family-style app and four sides, and meat for the main course. $39 for adults, $20 for kids, children under 5 eat free. 5:30-10:00 p.m. Morningside: 1397 North Highland Ave., Sandy Springs: 4969 Roswell Road Suite 200. To RSVP for Morningside location, call 404-347-9747. To RSVP for Sandy Springs location, call 404-497-9700. www.food101atlanta.com.

Justin’s Restaurant: Accepting takeout orders from their Thanksgiving Day menu: Whole Baked Turkeys seasoned with house herbs and spices, and traditional Southern Thanksgiving side items. Takeout begins Tues., Nov. 25. Orders placed over the phone, pick up is from 10:00 a.m.-6:00 p.m. 2200 Peachtree Road. 404-603-5353. www.justinsrestaurant.com.

Star Provisions: Accepting takeout orders for whole turkeys and gourmet side items such as Cranberry Relish, Mashed Potatoes, Pumpkin Pie, Gravy, and Fresh Green Beans. Orders placed over the phone by Sat., Nov. 22 at 5:00 p.m. Pick-up is Wed., Nov. 26 and all orders must be retrieved by 6:00 p.m. 1198 Howell Mill Road. 404-365-0410 ext. 134. www.starprovisions.com.

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Star Provisions To Go: A long-standing item on an ever-evolving seasonal menu, this posh po’boy is a favorite lunchtime item among regulars. The kitchen starts with a soft bun that’s slathered in a remoulade brightened by fresh chives and lemon juice. Large Georgia white shrimp covered in a buttermilk, flour and cornstarch mixture are fried in peanut oil then tucked into the bread along with bright green butter lettuce, sliced local tomatoes and dill pickles for added tang. 1198 Howell Mill Road, Suite 100. 404-365-0410. www.starprovisions.com.

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(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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My friend Gregg and I visited Star Provisions recently for lunch. Organic, local produce like the eggplants above were for sale out front.

The place is basically a candy store for foodies, and I had my usual difficulty ordering anything besides a po’ boy (which Gregg did order).

Instead, I opted for one of the day’s entrée specials — shredded, smoked pork over grits with green beans and corn. As usual, it was delicious. Not so usual, though, was the huge portion.

We also took some desserts home, including cupcakes for Gregg and a gorgeous lemon-meringue tart for me.

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I stopped by Star Provisions today for a sandwich, cup of coffee and a bottle of wine, which are the three things I usually go to Star Provisions for. In fact, when driving up Marietta and trying to decide whether to continue up Howell Mill to Star Provisions or stop at Octane, the toss up was between Octane’s cappuccino and Star Provisions’ wine selection. Both places have good sandwiches (although, to be fair, Star Provisions has REALLY good sandwiches as opposed to Octane’s decent ones). Anyway, wine won out over cappuccino today. But alas, I was thwarted. Star Provisions has stopped selling wine! The whole wine room was just sad, empty shelves.

The woman I spoke to who works there said it is a permanent business decision, based on the fact that they “just can’t compete” with the large wine retailers. Even if their wine sales don’t make up a huge portion of sales, I do wonder how many people, like me, stop in for wine and do other shopping and lunching there as well.

Luckily for me, Toscano and Sons, across the street from Octane, has a good Italian wine selection. So now I guess I’ll be able to have my wine and cappuccino, too.

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I had a late lunch Wednesday at Star Provisions (1198 Howell Mill Road, 404-365-0410). I’d heard a rumor that they were serving fried chicken, so I had to check it out. I found it in the refrigerated case near the cash register and figured I would be eating it cold, which would have been fine by me. I used to get up in the middle of the night and eat my mother’s leftover (flawless) chicken, standing in front of the refrigerator. It was always in a blue bowl lined with paper towels.

Star Provisions has some mysterious way of heating the chicken without ruining the crispy, flour-coated skin. The stuff was state-of-the-Southern-art, but not cheap. You pay by the pound.

Prices at this shop in front of Bacchanalia can sometimes take me by surprise. This bottle of Fentiman’s Ginger Beer (above), from the U.K., was over $4, for example, and it wasn’t nearly as good as Stewart’s version. (Then again, I can’t find Stewart’s Ginger Beer anywhere in town these days. If you have a lead, let me know.)

I bought this key lime tart (left), which looks like a culinary mandala, for dessert. When I took it to the cash register to pay, I was charged $10. I was shocked and made a sarcastic remark, since I thought it was half that much. As it turned out, I was right, they refunded me $5, and I ate the whole thing in a flash without any resentment about its price.

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Lunch at Star Provisions (1198 Howell Mill Road, 404-365-0410) is about as decadent as you can get in our city. Last week the cafe, an adjunct to Bacchanalia, was serving a crawfish etouffee. I wanted it but couldn’t resist the shrimp po’boy, probably the best in the city because of the lightly battered and fried shrimp, so fat and numerous that they can hardly be contained by the bread. Sides of beet salad and cucumber-leek salad were summery complements.

But it’s the pastry counter, pictured here, that makes a very good lunch turn into a very big guilt trip. This visit, I limited myself to one (giant-sized) Smore while my friend Gregg swallowed a German chocolate cupcake whole. Gregg said German chocolate cake has been his favorite since he was a kid. I had a series of flashbacks to my own childhood when the only decent bakeries in town were operated by the Rich’s department stores. I had their German chocolate cake for my own birthday many years. My other favorites there were the chocolate chess pie and the coconut cake. And it was impossible to go to a party in Atlanta without encountering the bakery’s cheese straws.

Atlanta’s baked goods have come a very long way.

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