Omnivore Atlanta

We revisited The Depot on Memorial Drive Sunday night. I’d heard that the restaurant, which recently won an award for its architectural design, had added a menu of specials.

I gotta say it was a strange experience. The place was deserted except for a few tables. My guess is that its main business Sunday is its brunch. I did find it odd, though, that at 8 p.m. we were given the brunch menu.

Our food was so-so and kind of retro. I ordered the day’s omelet, stuffed with fajitas and topped with guacamole and a salsa. It was fine, but really did remind me of the ’80s, especially because of the harsh “Mexican” seasoning used. Wayne ordered another special — tilapia over risotto. There were also two jumbo scallops wrapped in undercooked bacon on the plate. Tilapia was actually a substitute for the salmon that the specials board described. Again, flavor was okay, but I find $22 for a hunk of tilapia too costly.

Our main problem was the service. It was unbelievably slow. We liked our server, but she was absolutely clueless about anything on the menu and disappeared for lengthy periods, returning only to say, “Your food is almost ready.” It finally arrived after a good 20-minute wait.

The Depot has great ambiance but, if our Sunday night experience was exemplary, it needs some serious improvements.

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The Depot (904 Memorial Dr.) has won a design award. A news release says:

The Depot won Best Adaptive Use Award by Atlanta’s Urban Design Commission at its annual Awards of Excellence ceremony. The restaurant was originally a brick rail center with red tile roof that sat vacant for over 50 years before architect William Jay George of G6 Design and interior designer Bill Peace of Peace Design meticulously restored it. In keeping with the historical character and many architectural details, some notable design elements include the restored large sliding cargo/bay doors, original brick tiles, an expanded platform used for deck dining as well as old railroad tracks placed as foot rests at the rich wood bar that spans the length of the dining room.

It’s always cool to see someone in Atlanta preserving a building rather than obliterating one.

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Lisa Dreyer writes: “My husband and I are interested to know if you are aware of a restaurant in the Atlanta area that serves authentic lamb shwarma.” I referred her to Nicola’s. Other suggestions?

The man needs veggie wheels: Tom Maicon, who publishes Atlanta Cuisine newspaper and operates AtlantaCuisine.com, announced the following in this month’s newsletter.

With skyrocketing gas prices and food costs, it’s more difficult than ever to be a restaurant owner and patron. Costs are up and, let’s face it, salaries are not. In an effort to be even more earth friendly, as well as avoid hiking up our advertising rates, we have decided to tell the gasman to take a hike instead, and finally make the switch to vehicles that run on waste veggie oil for distribution of our papers as well as personal use. We already print on 100% recycled paper. We are currently in negotiations to buy a diesel Mercedes that can be converted to run on waste veggie oil. We haven’t had as much luck finding a diesel cargo van — we’ve been at it for six months already. If you happen to stumble across one please let me know.

Write Tom to sell him a van or subscribe to his newsletter at tom@atlantacuisine.com.

The ultimate bad review: This is from Robin Frazer Clark, concerning my love of a certain fast food: “I noticed your favorite Popeye’s on Boulevard is closed ‘due to fire.’ I know you thought the service was bad…but did you have to resort to arson? (just kidding, ya know).”

Open next week: Vita, the new Italian spot that occupies the old Mick’s building on Bennett Street, will open for lunch Monday, March 17, and will begin serving dinner soon afterward.

Dinner and the theater: Silk restaurant, 919 Peachtree Street, hosts its next Theatre Night on Sunday, April 6. Customers get a three-course dinner and an orchestra seat at the Alliance Theatre’Â’s production of Doubt, winner of the 2005 Pulitzer Prize for drama and four 2005 Tony Awards (including Best Play). Dinner starts at 5:30 p.m.; the play begins at 7:30 p.m. The event costs $56 per person (plus tax and tip), and Silk requires diners to make reservations with a credit card by calling the restaurant at 678-705-8888. To learn more, visit the restaurant’s website he  re.

I’m Mr. Wonderful: Here’s a nice email from Rhonda Moore: “I just read your review of The Depot. I was laughing out loud! You have a fabulous wit! For years, my husband and I have marveled at how “dead-on” your critiques are. Even more so, your reviews are thoroughly entertaining. I adore reading your column, either online or in CL. By the way, how is Wayne after his showdown with the display oyster shooter? I hope he’s fine and I hope you’re having a great day! Thanks for such a wonderful column. Be good!”

Actually, several other readers had written to inquire about Wayne’s health after gluttonously devouring an oyster shooter meant for display. He is no sicker or deranged than usual.

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I live in Grant Park and we welcome any new restaurant to the area. The latest to open is the Depot (904 Memorial Drive). It’s located in an old train depot and appears to be an instant hit, if Saturday night’s full parking lot was any indication. We returned Sunday night.

The restaurant has been opened by the same people who own Vickery’s and several other restaurants. The best feature is an outside window that looks directly into the kitchen. The interior is as bare as the typical train station but has some nice touches, especially with lighting.

The food? Well, it needs improvement. Perhaps the strangest dish I sampled was corn cakes topped with shrimp, arugula and diced tomatoes. The corn cakes were tepid and were smeared with, um, wasabi paste. Please, please get rid of the wasabi.

I’ll have a full report in a few weeks.

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JSF asks: “Any news on the ‘Depot’ at Memorial Drive at the Glenwood connector? It looks almost open and I know nothing about it. Got any insider info?”

The Depot is owned by the same folks who own Vickery’s, Fontaine’s and Highland Tap. The concept there will be similar to their other restaurants — an American bar and grill. They are hoping to be open sometime in February.

It is a very cool building (the old train depot near Glenwood Park) that has screamed to have a restaurant in it for years. We’ll keep you posted.

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