Omnivore Atlanta

MULTICULTURAL: The eclectic menu at Skewerz Pizza K

I’ve long maintained that a review, no matter how many times a critic visits a restaurant, is a snapshot in time. Things can change overnight. There are exceptions, of course. Fine-dining restaurants often maintain quality despite changes in ownership and kitchen staff.

An example of the latter is the Ritz-Carlton Buckhead, where Guenter Seeger began his career in Atlanta, then moved on to open Seeger’s. Woodfire Grill, opened by owner/chef Michael Tuohy, has maintained the same quality since Tuohy’s departure for California. Ditto, or largely so, for Joël after the departure of Joël Antunes for New York.

But smaller restaurants can easily be derailed by the same kinds of changes that big-monied venues take in stride. Then, too, there’s the problem of getting a thorough experience of a restaurant’s menu. This is especially difficult for me, since I’m usually writing first impressions or investigating a particular classification of food.

Continue reading “Grazing: Skewerz, take two”

(Photo by James Camp)

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SMOKE-FREE: The Glenwood's new dining room

The advent of the gastro pub has brought us good food and lots to drink under one roof for usually good prices. But it’s also created a health hazard. I’m talking about second-hand smoke.

Because most of these places qualify as bars, smoking is permitted under the law. Indeed, there’s even the case of the Vortex, which converted its official designation from restaurant to bar in order to let people respire carcinogens. Every gust of laughter in such places turns into a fit of coughing.

Of course, this isn’t much of an issue where the food is really secondary to boozing. But there are places, like the Glenwood (1263 Glenwood Ave., 404-622-6066), where the food is good enough that they attract serious diners who would rather not have to shower and wash their clothes as soon as they get home.

The Glenwood, happily, recently opened a smoke-free dining room that also includes a new wine bar. This is not a grudging accommodation. The new area is separated by sliding glass doors and has its own ventilation system. You won’t catch a whiff of smoke once you’re inside. (more…)

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We visited the Glenwood (1263 Glenwood Ave., 404-622-6066) in East Atlanta Village this weekend in order to try their new smoke-free dining room.

The space, which has separate ventilation from the main bar area, also includes a wine bar and offers charcuterie and cheese plates (right) along with Chef Angel Sutor’s cooking.

We had a good meal. Check out my next Grazing column for more details.

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STEAK IT OR LEAVE IT: The Kansas City strip steak

Last week, Our Fearless Leader finally uttered the “r” word: recession. Never mind that anyone who has rolled a cart in a grocery store or coasted to a gas pump has known the word has been applicable for months. Now it’s an official part of reality. We’ve been in a recession for a year.

Given that, it’s surprising that restaurants, especially higher-end restaurants, continue to open. My bank account says “burger,” not “steak,” so it felt almost decadent to show up at a new steakhouse last week. Parker’s on Ponce (116 E. Ponce de Leon Ave., 404-924-2230) is located in the former Mick’s building across from the courthouse in downtown Decatur.

The restaurant seems huge – all restaurants look huge to me these days, owing to their epidemic emptiness – but Parker’s space is broken up into several dining rooms. We ate in the front room, where a few other tables were seated.

It’s been years since I was in the building, so I’m not sure how much remodeling has occurred. The space is warmly lit, almost minimalist in décor, and features a few glowing fireplaces. I saw my first Christmas decorations of the year here – a few poinsettias and a silvery stocking.

Our server gave us the scoop. The restaurant, more than a year in planning, has been opened by brothers JT and Chris Scott, who earlier worked at Mick’s. (They are the sons of the late Tom Scott, DeKalb County’s longtime tax commissioner.) Chef is David Hartshorn, who earlier was the chef at Einstein’s in Midtown. (more…)

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I’m sorry to report that Ryan Stewart has left the Glenwood, which we named the city’s best gastropub in the “Best of Atlanta” recently.

Apparently, Stewart and the restaurant’s owners could not agree about the quality cost of ingredients he customarily uses. Stewart (who, yes, is married to editor Besha Rodell) is a follower of the local/organic food movement. His special dinners at the Glenwood were unique in the city.

Coincidentally, I wrote about owner-chef differences in a recent post about Richard Blais’ departure from Home. I’m guessing we’re going to see more of these disputes as the economy worsens. I know few restaurants that aren’t experiencing a noticeable drop in business.

Meanwhile, Angel Sutor has moved into the chef’s job at the Glenwood. I first met Angel when she was the chef at the much-missed St. Agnes’ Tea Garden years ago. As I recall, she’s had her own go-rounds with restaurant owners over the years. So, someone make some popcorn and let’s watch what happens.

I hope Stewart lands someplace soon and that Angel does well in her new position.

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Georgia Organics and the Atlanta Local Food Initiative are throwing CHEWS LOCAL!, an organic soirée in East Atlanta Village, Thurs., Sept. 25. The event, which celebrates the launch of Georgia Organics’ new local food guide, takes place at the Glenwood. A reception will be held from 5:30-7:30 p.m, where chefs from the Glenwood, Dynamic Dish, Slush, Kasan Red and the Graveyard Tavern will join forces to whip up some seriously nutritious and delicious apps. Cost for the reception is $15. Immediately following the reception is dinner for $65, beginning at 8 p.m. Reservations for both the reception and/or the dinner are required via www.georgiaorganics.org/events. Don’t miss out!

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The best deal I’ve found in a restaurant in quite a while was The Glenwood’s first “summer farm dinner” last Monday, Aug. 4. We dined on five very good courses, featuring the produce of Scharko Farms, for $35.

The meal concluded with this “raspberry Napoleon” with lemon-verbena cream, surrounded by a mint moat. I am ultra-picky about raspberries, which seem to be the most abused berry on the planet. There was no abuse here. The raspberries were so flavorful, they rendered everything else on the plate back-up material. But I liked the novel combination with mint.

The fifth course (above right) was slices of medium-rare venison with arugula salad, corn pudding and black berries. Chef Ryan Stewart stopped by our table while we were eating this and waxed eloquently about how deer are eating berries and corn this time of year, so that the plate was like an ode to summer. Then he mentioned that the venison was from New Zealand and, it being winter there now, we wondered if he had not spoiled his ode. He agreed and moved on to another table.

We didn’t mind, because the plate, like all others, was delicious no matter who is eating whom this month.

We were especially impressed by the first course — “heirloom tomato water” with cucumber and basil sorbet. I assumed the name was a “food-ism” for tomato juice, but it actually was clear. One of the restaurant managers explained to us that Stewart squeezed the tomato’s pulp through a filter, leaving behind the essence of tomato. One complaint only: The tiny bowl’s sorbet was almost completely melted when it hit the table. I would have liked a more substantial taste of it.

Check the restaurant’s website regularly for other special dinners. By the way, work has begun on The Glenwood’s expansion into an adjoining space. Look for a smoke-free space with a wine bar.

(As always, full disclosure requires that we report that Chef Ryan Stewart is married to our cuisine editor, Besha Rodell. But, honestly, this East Atlanta Village gastro-pub is unique in our city.)

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This is going to be good. Ryan Stewart, chef at The Glenwood, plans to launch a series of “summer farm dinners” on Aug. 4. The first will feature vegetables, herbs and fruit from Scharko Farms.

Cost for five courses is $35, a bargain, to say the least. You must make a reservation by calling 404-622-6066. I suggest you do so promptly. The Glenwood’s last special meal, a “beer dinner” earlier this week, sold out.

Stewart’s menu follows:

First course: Heirloom tomato water with cucumber and basil ice sorbet.

Second: Quail rillettes with field pea pistou.

Third: Salmon on polenta, rattlesnake beans, crispy pork belly.

Fourth: Venison loin with sweet corn pudding and arugula salad.

Dessert: Raspberry Napoleon with lemon verbena cream.

The Glenwood is located in East Atlanta Village at 1263 Glenwood Ave.

(Full disclosure: Yes, Ryan Stewart is the spouse of our cuisine editor Besha Rodell. No, nobody bribed me to write about this. The man’s cooking is incredible. Photo from Scharko Farms’ website.)

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DirtySouthWine is a master of suspense:

When I was invited up to Wolf Mountain Vineyards to join a crew for a dosage trial of Georgia’s first méthode Champenoise sparkling wine, I was curious, but a little pessimistic of what I’d taste “up in them hills”. My previous experience with Georgia wines was never more than pleasant, often far less.

To learn how his journey turned out, click here….

Steakhead does suspense too:

I am a big fan of ceviches, the tangy Latin American marinated seafood dish. When in Cozumel earlier this year, we made a specific trip to the east side of the island where beach bars without electricity serve up ceviches and cold margaritas. When I heard about a restaurant in Roswell with the same name, you could imagine how excited I was.

Continue reading here….

Oh my God! The Glenwood is serving calf brains … or something. Look here….

Oh my God! Oh my God! Chocolate ice cream with chocolate chips and blueberry-port wine swirl! Get the recipe here (but be sure to read the comments)….

The Georgia Restaurant Association reports on a growing coalition that opposes Congressional food-to-fuel mandates because they are contributing to the global food shortage. Read about it here….

At long last, a reusable screw-top cap for canned drinks! Find it here…

Here’s some good news from Chow Down Atlanta about the former chef of the defunct Epicurean:

I have been a fan of Chef Peter Golaszewski since The Epicurean, where I tasted the best English peas risotto on earth. He’s now back as the executive chef at The Feed Store Restaurant down south, close to the airport. While it may be a trek just to get to where he is, believe me, it’s worth the drive.

Check out the full story, including tantalizing pictures, here.

(Image from the Marvel Database.)

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Today is the first day of Spring and chefs around town will be debuting their seasonal menus during the next few weeks. We checked out the new menu at the Glenwood (1263 Glenwood Ave., 404-622-6066) in East Atlanta Village last night.

Let’s get the usual explanations out of the way. The gastro pub’s chef, Ryan Stewart, is the husband of our cuisine editor, Besha Rodell. Also, I was recognized. One of the kitchen staff is Angel Sutor (bottom photo), whom I’ve known a zillion years, since she was chef at St. Agnes Tea Garden in Decatur. Angel has been on quite an adventure in recent years, including gigs in Jacksonville and Savannah. Her style and wit seem a good match for the Glenwood’s staff and clientele.

Angel is expected to take a significant role in the Glenwood’s expansion plans. Within the next two months, the restaurant will expand into the adjoining space. The new dining room will include a wine bar featuring charcuterie and cheeses. Stewart’s regular menu will also be served in the new space. Here’s extra good news: the new room will be smoke-free and the music will be turned down low enough to converse without screaming or using sign language.

Honestly, we had a wonderful meal, but by all means check it out for yourself. I’ve been eating a lot of decent but not very creative Mexican food in the last few weeks and I was especially impressed with Stewart’s crispy quesadilla containing a soft-shell crab and fried tomatillo salsa, topped with some salad greens and radish slices (top photo). I also got a sample of the mole he makes (for a dish of duck chilaquiles with orange-braised chicory). I’m not kidding: I don’t know a Mexican restaurant in the city serving dishes of equal quality.

Wayne ordered a bento box containing salmon cured in green tea, soba noodles, wakami (seaweed), dashi and creme fraiche with a bit of fish roe. (Stewart is playing with the classic of lox and cream cheese with this dish.)

For an entree, I had slices of grilled lamb arranged on a balsamic-streaked plate about a mound of ratatouille and a large dollop of sunchoke puree (above, right). The lamb, mildly seasoned and cooked medium rare, was delicious but I’d order the dish again just for the puree. In fact, I want a bowl of the stuff. The ratatouille, a dish that is usually overcooked and overwhelmed by tomatoes, was just as notable. You can actually taste the eggplant!

Wayne ordered a hunk of grilled salmon served over an interesting waffle made of white sweet potatoes and braised baby spinach (above left). Candied baby carrots were also on the plate. Everything was cooked perfectly, but I’ve got to admit the dish — from the glaze of the fish to the glaze of the carrots — was too sweet to our taste. But, hey, I like bitter flavors.

Speaking of sweetness, we shared an absurd dessert — a “smores sundae” made with housemade chocolate-malt ice cream, marshmallow fluff and “brulee bananas.” This joins a dessert menu that also features fried Oreos with vanilla ice cream and rhubarb crisp.

The menu includes other additions like a braised rabbit papardelle with olives and spring vegetables, and parmesan-crusted halibut with artichoke barrigoule and tapenade bruschetta. Stewart uses local, organic produce and meats whenever possible.

If you have tips about spring menus at other restaurants, please email me or use the comments space.

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The Standard is one of the best things to happen to my neighborhood, Grant Park, in a long time. It’s full of personality, has a great staff, attracts a personable clientele and serves good food, especially Monday nights when it offers a dirt-cheap, delicious curry as a special. Other specials, such as last night’s penne marinara, are usually good, too.

Unfortunately, on a cold night like last night, when you have to eat inside, it’s like impersonating meat that’s being cured in a smoker. By the time I got home my eyes were watering and my clothes smelled liked the cigarettes the table of three next to us was chain-smoking.

Now, this is not a rant about the Standard in particular. I smoked for 12 years myself. I called my ever-present cigarette my 11th finger – and I could not operate a keyboard without it. So I know how compelling the habit can be. There’s nothing like wasting your brain with booze and ruining your lungs with a cigarette.

Quitting smoking was one of the most difficult things I’ve ever done. I was editing Creative Loafing at the time and my brain turned into a monkey – no focus, jumping all over the place. I continued to crave cigarettes for a year and didn’t really completely lose the craving for several years.

One of the things that kept me devoted to quitting was embarrassment. I’d only quit a week when I walked into my closet and nearly passed out from the odor. Later, I kissed a smoker. Ewwww. Then we had sex. Oh my god! Head-to-toe nicotine. I didn’t want to turn into a typical reformed smoker, because I know what really motivates their self-righteousness is wanting everyone else to be as miserable as they are while they’re withdrawing from their habit. But I gotta tell you: If you smoke, you stink.

Non-smokers are generally spoiled in America, really. Most restaurants are smoke-free. You can’t smoke on public transportation. But go to Europe, especially France, and the idea that polluting the air with smoke is rude and unhealthy is still an eye-roller to many. I only complained to someone once and it became a duel about what causes more misery in the world – George Bush or cigarette smoke?

In actuality, the French, like the Italians, have had a ban on smoking in public places for a few years, but it has not been much enforced. The ban becomes effective in restaurants and bars in January. We’ll see if they actually enforce it. They do promise to.

Georgia law, since 2005, bans smoking in bars and restaurants that admit or employ anyone under 18. Thus the Vortex decided to consider itself a bar rather than a restaurant in order to preserve the filthy habit. It’s too bad that minors can’t enjoy the food at the Standard or the Glenwood. It’s also too bad that the General Assembly ignores the reality of the hazards of second-hand smoke to adults.

I suppose the idea is that, as an adult, you can choose not to patronize a smoky gastro-pub. But if the General Assembly feels right in adopting blue laws to limit alcohol consumption on Sundays, it’s odd they won’t ban a behavior, smoking, that is more directly hazardous to others. Other states and cities have. And, please, don’t bother to tell me second-hand smoke isn’t hazardous. If the French have decided it is, it is.

The very least that smoky bars can do is provide decent ventilation. The Standard does not seem to have any filtration system at all. There are a couple of tiny fans stirring up the hazy clouds of smoke but, as far as I can see, nothing to actually remove the smoke.

Please feel free to recommend your own nominees for Smokiest Place in Town.

(Graphics from http://ricketyclick.com)

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OK, all of you concerned that I’m in league with Besha Rodell to advance a nepotistic agenda should read on. Besha’s husband, Ryan Stewart, is chef of the Glenwood, which I reviewed recently here. I had no idea he was the chef when I filed my positive review.

I returned to the restaurant Saturday night — you know, just to enjoy a good meal. It’s really the best cooking in the Grant Park-East Atlanta Village area. Go try it yourself if you think I’m just trying to get Besha, my editor, to stop moving my commas around.

Our meal Saturday night included the best she-crab soup, laced with fennel, I’ve tasted in memory. As usual with she-crab soups around town, I couldn’t find any roe in the bowl, but there was a generous amount of crab meat. We also ordered a plate of pimento cheese, fried pickles and candied pecans.

My entree was chicken-fried “filet mignon” over mashed potatoes and collards that actually tasted a lot like sauerkraut. There was gravy with caramelized onions on the plate, too. It was a quick transit to Texas where I used to eat chicken-fried steak constantly.

Wayne’s entree was pasta with wild mushrooms, slick with porcini oil.

But here’s what I really wanted to report. As any foodie in the city knows, there is no really good, serious German food in Atlanta. On Monday, Oct. 29, Stewart prepared a five-course Oktoberfest menu, each dish paired to a German beer. Here’s the menu I’m sorry I missed: appetizers of munster and oysters with apple-bacon mignonette; pastrami-cured salmon with pumpernickel and coriander creme fraiche; rabbit and rye gnocchi with butternut squash and hazelnut foam; duck schnitzel with scalloped potatoes and onion gravy; pork chop encrusted with pretzels and grain mustard on ricotta spaetzle; gingerbread pudding with pumpkin ice cream and caraway-lemon sauce.

Apparently, Stewart creates these menus without notice. If he keeps it up, the restaurant needs to develop an e-mail list.

The place was packed Saturday night — so noisy you could barely hear the blaring music. I’m not complaining, though, because Janis Joplin was among the selections played.

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