Omnivore Atlanta

Varsity love

By Molly Spruill

When co-workers ask where I am from and I tell them “Atlanta”, they say, “That’s a rarity!” As the hub of the Southeast, Atlanta seems to have far more out-of-towners than native Atlantans. As a result, many of the people that I work with don’t have the history or memories of our fair city that I do.

These memories often come up when people want to know why I have an affinity for places like the Varsity. Just take a glance at the reviews for the Varsity on Yelp. Many of the negative ones are from people who went to the Varsity because it’s an “Atlanta institution”. That’s like a vegan telling a hardcore meat eater that tofu tastes just like chicken. People who haven’t gone to the Varsity all their lives probably won’t appreciate it in the same way that native Atlantans do.

Okay, yes, it is greasy — incredibly greasy — and don’t even think about going there if you have a rigorous day planned. But, if you grew up in Atlanta like me, you probably have a soft spot for The Varsity, too. Early memories of trips to there include always getting a trademark Varsity paper hat! (more…)

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Local Internet foodies are reporting that Frank Ma’s is reopening tonight, Monday, Jan. 7, in Chinatown Square in Chamblee. Many regarded the Taiwanese and Shanghainese restaurant as the best in the city. The original, located on Roswell Road, was one of the city’s most “exotic” restaurants of its time, dating back to the ’70s, if I’m not mistaken. Check out the gossip about it on AtlantaCuisine.com.

Chloe Morris, author of the Chow Down Atlanta blog, has been stuck working at City Hall East and has inventoried the haute cuisine to be found along Ponce de Leon Avenue, including the Varsity, which she reviews. (Hey, Mitt Romney loves it.) Farther away, out on Roswell Road, she also reviews breakfast at Goldberg’s, whose bagels have long been regarded as the city’s best. Check her blog out here….

Jennifer Zyman, the Blissful Glutton, checked out the chef hired by Sala’s new owners. She reports:

Went to check out the new chef at Sala in VaHi for a couple of quick bites after a movie on Saturday. We only ordered a few items–ceviche, elote and enchiladas with chicken–which were all pretty average. I wasn’t blown away, but I am a tough critic when it comes to Mexican food. The elote was very good–couldn’t stop eating it or the homemade tostadas that came with it. The enchiladas were not that great–think it was because there was so much stuff piled on (chunks of radish, cheese, shredded lettuce, etc.). Not bad, but not great either. The ceviche was decent, but lacking any real pop. The key lime margaritas were excellent and served straight up in a martini glass. My friend and I had 2 each. I would like to go back and try more dishes. Not passing out a verdict quite yet. Stay tuned on this one.

Jennifer also features a post about a local documentary film about the late Edna Lewis, who was mentor to Scott Peacock of Watershed restaurant. His recipes are featured in the current issue of Gourmet magazine, which is all about Southern cooking. The film, titled Fried Chicken and Sweet Potato Pie, may be viewed on Gourmet’s and Georgia Public Broadcasting’s websites.

Actually, I have it in mind to review this issue of Gourmet….

Here’s a great new blog for wine drinkers, DirtySouthWine.com. This guy has an amazing nose, palate, wit and practical mind. By way of introducing his blog, he writes:

When I write about wines, I don’t assign points, stars, etc.– just really how willing I’d be to buy it again. Along with that, my enthusiasm can be gauged in just how “dirty” I feel the wine is. The dirtier, the better. As a note, my level of excitement will always take value into account. A $10 bottle that drinks like $50 makes me spit rhymes like a player. A $100 bottle that drinks like $40 makes me feel like a total sucker.

If you have a favorite food blog or news you want to share, please post it in the comments section or e-mail me at grazer@mindspring.com.

(Photo of Varsity chili dog from RoadFood.com.)

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