Omnivore Atlanta

To all who are interested in showing off their awesome culinary skills, “Top Chef”will  hold auditions here in Atlanta for season seven. This open casting call will be at Craft Restaurant, 10 a.m.-2 p.m., on Nov. 8. Be sure to bring a filled out application, video submission and all other required materials, which can be found on the Bravo TV website.

Also, be sure to brush-up on you pastries and cakes, as a new “Top Chef” spin-off, titled “Top Chef: Just Desserts,” will also be casting at the same audition. The newest version of the show was just recently announced on Oct., 26 and auditions are already underway. The spin-off is said to premiere in 2010.

Craft is located at 3376 Peachtree Road. 404-995-7580. www.craftrestaurant.com.

(Photo courtesy Bravo TV)

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Often, people ask me where I get my inspiration. I don’t usually have an answer. I may ramble about the farmers’ market, or detail an epiphany I had while visiting a new city. But it’s very difficult to delve into the process in a few sentences. It’s poetic to talk about inspiration being all around you, and that if you just open your eyes wide enough, you’ll see. Smell the roses … or garbage bin, for that matter.

The romantic notion that inspiration can strike anyone, wildly and without rhyme or reason, simply isn’t true. As with any creative endeavor, inspiration is only useful when you have a firm foundation of experience and technique to filter it through.

But if you have a moment, I’ll walk you through the inspiration behind a dish that I’m doing at a private dinner this month. The dinner happens to be in a graveyard. At night. Outside. In total darkness, except each diner is armed with a flashlight.

I’ll be describing the last savory course of a five-course meal.

Continue Reading “Sacrificial inspiration”

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It’s almost – no – it’s very cliché now, to exalt the properties of the pig. There are many restaurants that should simply be called pig bars. And chefs like Kevin have replaced dragons, skulls, and Japanese body art with charts of the animal’s anatomy.

But, why?

For the most part, of course, it’s flavor. The smokiness.  The salt.  But, mainly, it’s the fat. Where other animals’ fat can take on an unpleasant texture, especially cold, the pig yields melting lusciousness, almost all the time.

For that reason, it’s irreplaceable.

Emeril was right (even if I cringe while typing it). Pork fat rules!

Bacon however… is overrated.

This declaration has already landed me on a few blog’s hit lists, but I feel rather adamant about it. (more…)

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Watch what happens. Closely. And you’ll see that at this point of our Las Vegas competition, fatigue becomes a factor.

Tightly cropped haircuts grow past their next usual appointment. Beards and bellies expand. Eyes droop. Attitudes alter. And real world dilemmas present themselves in this unreal world. Like getting sick. What has only been a couple of viewing hours to us at home has been a non-stop, every day, three week grind for the cast up to this point.

Boo-hoo. Chefs work long hours. Right?

Not like this.

“Top Chef” combines two labor intensive industries, television production and cooking. Both are notorious for 12 to14 hour work days. Throw them together and you get a grueling, high-stress 17 to 20 hour day.

When our chefs aren’t cooking, they’re still on the clock. Whether it’s dictated isolation and quiet time, or sitting in the proverbial crock pot called the stew room, it is some of the most demanding work of the participants’ lives. It creates compelling stories, interesting cooking and usually some drama.

And the physical toll doesn’t even compare to the mental strain. (more…)

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You see it on “Top Chef” all the time. The hobbled, baby wildebeest limping around the kitchen. A chef barely hanging on in the competition. Scared and bleeding. On their last legs. With a few hyena snapping at their ankles. A lions pride, calmly in the brush, watching.

Figuratively, Robin is that wildebeest.

Literally, though, she’s a true survivor.

Eli’s unfortunate comments cast judgment on Robin’s inspiration and victory this week. It was the type of comment that probably had more than one person, including myself, saying “Oh no, he didn’t”.

He did.

I can’t defend his choice of words. Even though I can vouch for his character (he happens to be an extremely loyal and family-focused person).

But I can help you imagine his mindset.

When you’re a young chef, overly ambitious and obsessed with your craft, cancer doesn’t mean much. When you work in a great restaurant and push hard every day, nothing else means as much. A tight brunoise or turned vegetable are all that matters. Life is barely a blip on the radar.

It reminds me of this quote from White Heat by Marco Pierre White.

“When boys don’t last the pace that makes me feel good because I can and I will”. – chef de partie at Harvey’s.

That is a ruthless yet accurate comment.

Change that to, “I love it when cooks can’t keep up, even if they’ve had cancer,” and you have a sampling of what I think Eli was getting at.

(more…)

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Right now, I’m at a coffee shop. A few moments ago, I signed an autograph on one of those papers you find in front of such places. Probably looks like the one you’re reading now. I’m in a baseball cap, pulled just over my eyes, and a pair of camouflage carpenter shorts I got from Target. And a nondescript navy blue sweatshirt.

I’m Joe, Anytown USA. But I’m not.

I’ve achieved some sort of celebrity status. Falling in rank somewhere between the E and Z lists. Probably more toward the back of the alphabet. A fact that has been made increasingly obvious through some surreal experiences.

Often, I’m just that guy from TV. A food channel dude. That chef.

Sometimes, I’m a guy you think you know from somewhere, but can’t quite place.

I recommend that if you find yourself going through this metamorphosis, do not tell the person who is stumped about your identity who you are. Telling them you’re from this or that TV show has the potential to yield a most humiliating result. As it did to me once in Jacksonville. Early in my newfound life, the curious person who thought they knew me responded that no, they didn’t know me from television. They just thought I was Craig Wilson from their intramural softball team.

I now refer to this as the Craig Wilson rule.

Continue reading “Knife’s Edge: Z list”

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This week’s “Top Chef” certainly clarified that the cast’s brothers, Bryan and Michael Voltaggio, are more than just a slick casting call exploited by the show to infuse more drama. Of course, if they were gay, well that would have been network gold I’m sure! Happily though, they are short on controversy and big on talent.

Our industry has some significant brother combinations. There are the Adria brothers, and the famed Troisgros family. Even though the latter is more like a Jackson family phenomenon. And even as you’re reading this I’m sure you’re noting many more from your own local scene. Here in the Southeast, the Rathbun brothers come to mind.

I started to think about who they collectively remind me of, and lo and behold, it was made clear on Sunday. The Voltaggio boys are seemingly on a course to become the Manning brothers of the “Top Chef” universe. (more…)

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HE PUT HIS HEART INTO IT: Pura Vida's Hector is the first Atlantan to go home

Nothing’s better than bacon jam.

In last night’s episode of “Top Chef” Las Vegas, hometown hero Kevin Gillespie became cheftestant royalty as he sat down for dinner alongside a panel of crazy famous French chefs, including the chef of the century “unicorn” Joel Robuchon. Kevin’s take on snails paired with southern inspired bacon jam (“I think you could put bacon jam on anything and you’re golden”) won him the affection of guest judge Daniel Boulud and, in a very cool twist, the opportunity to clean up, don a suit (production actually bought him a new one), and eat rather than cook during the elimination challenge.

Bacon didn’t work as well for Frenchman Mattin, whose embarassing bacon infused veloute landed him at the loser’s table. While it was too obvious Mattin would fail the challenge (just how much country-pride pressure can you put on one neckerchiefed man?), it was surprising that he didn’t take more heat, or responsibility, for his role in the dish. After lying at judge’s table about his level of input on Ashley’s ideas (he volunteered his disapproval of the asparagus, but didn’t cop up that he vetoed putting it in the sauce, a suggestion Tom had liked), Mattin showed that even in a challenge geared towards his strengths (“I think they make a challenge just for me”), he wasn’t much of a chef. At least Robuchon complimented his French. (more…)

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In Episode 2 of “Top Chef”: Las Vegas, there were a few obvious, spirited political issues included in the plot. One was whether or not a girls versus boys challenge is sexist. And of course the legalization of gay marriage.

You’ll all be glad that I’m not going to discuss those issues in this column. OK, well, for the record, I think people should be able to wed whomever they want.

But, what I felt was the biggest controversy of the episode was the comment made that the boys’ food was “contrived” and that mass appeal is as important as the judges’ opinion.

These are both issues I take pretty seriously. The former is an issue we battle every day in my kitchens. (more…)

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As I cover Top Chef Season 6 in Las Vegas for Bravo, I take a few seconds of action each week and throw it under the microscope. I often find one or two moments each episode that either reveal a industry insider’s secret or, as a former competitor, something I have a behind the scenes take on.

In episode 1 of Las Vegas, both of these moments came together in the same sequence. It was the kiss that Jennifer Carroll gave Tom Colicchio. And the facial expression that Tom made immediately following.

I’ve read on a few blogs that some people feel the kiss was inappropriate.

I don’t think so. (more…)

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GO TEAM! Kevin Gillespie wins the first elimination challenge

Score one for Atlanta!

In a sea of tattoos, piercings, and un-shucked clams on last night’s debut of “Top Chef Las Vegas” (at first, I thought I might have accidentally been watching a new episode of “LA Ink”), Atlanta’s three resident cheftestants managed to make quite a splash. Kevin Gillespie of Woodfire Grill, who came off with an odd mixture of arrogance and good guy charm, won the season’s first elimination challenge for his procrastination-inspired arctic char and turnip salsa verde, winning over guest judge celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck and tough guy Tom Colicchio.

Kevin was definitely the star of the evening, but my heart already lies with Hector whose accent and cooking motto (“I cook with heart and balls”) are setting him up to be this season’s gentle giant. I was a fan the minute he complemented Padma without just calling her hot, although I’ll admit I’m still wrapping my head around the deep fried steak dish.

As for Eli, Atlanta’s third representative, I’m pegging him as this season’s class clown. His commentary (“I cook ’cause I’m a fat kid”) and faux-cocky attitude (which appears to be about as tough as his faux hawk) are funny without going the way of, say, “Top Chef” New York’s Stephan. Stephan’s honor I’ll reserve for Michael Isabella, whose own cocky attitude and sexist comments put him as the prime suspect for season villain. Preeti may not have been able to shuck clams, but she does know what seitan is — take that, Jersey boy! (more…)

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Hector Santiago

When Richard Blais made his now legendary run on “Top Chef” Season Four, it captivated Atlanta audiences in a way basic cable rarely does: We became enthralled as a community.

This season, we have even more reason to tune in. Three Atlanta chefs, all of them fairly prominent, compete in the sixth season premiering Wed., Aug. 19: Pura Vida’s Hector Santiago, Woodfire Grill’s Kevin Gillespie and Eno’s Eli Kirshtein. Anyone who cares about food and restaurants in Atlanta has most likely eaten in at least one of these guys’ restaurants. And while none of them may be as well-known as Blais (who riled up the passions of foodies long before he was on “Top Chef”), they each bring a set of strengths and challenges to Las Vegas that will be fascinating to watch.

I spoke to all three chefs last week, and while they aren’t allowed to talk about what happened on the show in any detail, I was able to find out a little about how they went into the competition and what their strategies were once they arrived.

Continue reading “Atlanta’s Top Chefs”

(Photo by Trae Patton)

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Pura Vida's Hector Santiago

It’s time to unpack your knives. “Top Chef” is back and it’s more local than ever.

The new season of “Top Chef,” this time set in glitzy Las Vegas, starts this month, and, as previously unveiled, will include three Atlanta chefs, the most of any season: Kevin Gillespie of Woodfire Grill, Hector Santiago of Pura Vida, and Eli Kirshtein of Eno.

Gillespie, Santiago, and Kirshtein are just three of the 17 cheftestants featured on the upcoming season. Others include the executive chef for Google, a Frenchman from Biarritz, and a finalist for the James Beard Best New Restaurant award. My biggest question leading into the series (other than how the economy has affected Padma’s wardrobe) is how well the locals will fare against the rest of the competition. Past chefs have gone to both extremes: Atlanta-based chef Nimma Osman was the first to pack her knives on the Chicago edition of “Top Chef” while Richard Blais made it to the same season’s finale. How well do you think Gillespie, Santiago, and Kirshstein will fare? And will any of their restaurant’s dishes wind up on the judges plates? (more…)

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Outgoing New York Times restaurant critic Frank Bruni gives Eleven Madison Park four stars. He philosophises a bit more losely about the descision on his blog as well.

Read the transcript or listen to the podcast of yesterday’s “Talk of the Nation” from NPR, where Phil Vittel, the Chicago Tribune’s dining critic talks about irritating menu phrases.

The AJC’s John Kessler reports on a conference call with “Top Chef” judges Toby Young and Gail Simmons.

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This morning on the Village Voice’s Fork in the Road blog, Voice critic Robert Sietsema asks whether “Top Chef” is ruining cooking in America. His post suggests that flashy cooking is what’s rewarded on the show – and the photo chosen to run alongside the post is one of Richard Blais. Sietsema doesn’t call Blais’ cooking out in the text, but the context would have us believe that the kind of “garish” cooking he’s talking about is represented by Blais.

I’m not sure I agree with the basic premise of Sietsema’s post – inventiveness has certainly been rewarded on the show, but so has straightforward, unpretentious presentations. Both styles represent major movements in American cooking. Last season’s Stephan nearly won with totally straightforward European cooking. And Hosea…what did he cook again? I can’t remember. Not tofu marinated in beef fat, that’s for sure. So, yeah, maybe Blais-ian nuttiness is what we remember from the show. But it’s not always what wins.

As to Sietsema’s point, that we can’t actually taste what’s on the plate, well yes, that is the major flaw of all food TV. But we watch for the same reason we read great food writing. Good food TV should be evocative, descriptive. Can we trust the judges? As much as we decide we can or can’t trust a critic like Robert Seitsema (or me, for that matter).

And in Atlanta this season, we are in the very lucky position of being able to go out and taste three of the contestant’s cooking, if we want to.

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Bravo has revealed the chefs competing on the new season of “Top Chef” and three chefs are from Atlanta — Kevin Gillespie from Woodfire Grill, Hector Santiago from Pura Vida, and Eli Kirshtein from Eno. All this hometown competition should make for an exciting season.

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Eater L.A. reveals “Top Chef” contestant Stephan’s horrible clothing line. (Thanks to Bliss for the link)

The New York Times continues with their Georgia/travel love-fest with a story about breakfast in Athens. Also in the NYT, Frank Bruni goes over the basics of the reasons that tipping is an obligation. Are we still having this conversation?

Mother Jones starts the conversation about what’s really going to help make our food systems sustainable.

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John Kessler reports on the firing of Joel Antunes from the Oak Room. (Thanks to foodieman for the tip, also).

Blais blogs about Hosea’s “Top Chef” win. I also like this Epicurious blog about how to make next season better.

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I challenge you to recall one thing this dude cooked before tonight. Seriously. Stephan was a douche, but at least I remember a few things he cooked. In all seriousness y’all, WTF??? Nice guy, but really? I’m going to bed. Ugh.

I give all credit to the sous! As usual!

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So finally we learn the finalists — and to think they got there with decent gumbo and some shrimp and grits. How utterly uninspired. By far the most exciting thing about last night’s episode was Fabio’s dangerous fashion choices. I like a man who can rock a pink scarf. But the mohawk? I’m not sold.

SPOILER ALERT: Although it would have been entirely stupid, I was kind of hoping for Stephan to go home. Just because it would have been a surprise. As it stands now, the only thing that will save the season is if Carla wins. I think most of us thought she was just there for the freaky tallness factor, so it’s nice to see her come from behind with all her weirdness.

Speaking of Top Chefs, today is Richard Blais’ birthday. Happy birthday chef! In honor of his big day, I’m happy to announce that beginning next week, Blais will be writing a column for our food section. It’s about time we had a voice from the restaurant world in our pages, and I’m incredibly excited about the possibilities. Look for it online on Monday and in next week’s paper.

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In case you haven’t heard, “Top Chef” is casting for their next season, and they’re holding an open casting at Craft on February 22nd. Here’s the release:

Bravo’s Emmy and James Beard Award-winning series and the No. 1 rated food show on cable, “Top Chef,” will be returning for a sixth season. Open calls for chefs interested in competing in the high-stakes culinary competition series will be held in cities across the country starting this weekend. Additional casting information for these series is available at www.BravoTV.com/casting.

ATLANTA Sunday, February 22, 10:00 AM – 2:00 PM Craft Restaurant www.craftatlanta.com.

I’ve just heard from a second casting agent, who’s casting a show called “David Adjey’s Restaurant 101″ about the trails of new restaurant owners. Sounds like a kind of preemptive “Kitchen Nightmares.” Here’s the scoop:

Are you opening your very first restaurant but you lack any real restaurant experience? Would you welcome the advice of a professional restaurant consultant?

If this is you, we want you to star in an episode of a exciting new TV series for a major food network.

In every episode of this captivating and very real one-hour series, restaurant coach David Adjey provides first-time restaurant owners with the tools to open and run a successful business.

We are looking for compelling characters with good personal stories and high stakes.

For more information, please send an email to restaurant 101@redapple.com.

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OK, my crush on Gene is officially over. Cute neck tattoos aside, surf and turf sushi???? REALLY?

It’s sad, because now I have no one to cheer for. Some of the chefs are OK, but at this point, do we really have a sense for how any of them cook? Some are upscale, some have ethnic influence, some want to impress with their cheer leading for the decency of “simple” — but is there anything here we haven’t seen before? Or that’s even slightly exciting? There hasn’t been one dish served this season that’s made me say — wow, I’d really like to try that.

The failures are certainly outweighing the successes thus far in terms of memorability.

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Not a whole lot to say about last night’s show except a few thoughts:

Does Radhika remind anyone else of Helena Bonham Carter (apart from the fact that they both have confusing “h”s in their names)?

Does anyone else think Jeff has a tiny bit of American Psycho in him?

What’s up with the pro-Europe talk, like Europeans are some kind of oppressed minority that never gets its culinary due? I’m sorry, but a European winning does not have the same significance as a woman winning last season. A tattooed Hawaiian however (oops, I think I just let my Top Chef crush out of the bag)…

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Guess what? This is Omnivore Atlanta’s one thousandth post!!! What a grand ride it’s been – we’ve laughed, we’ve cried…ahem…

OK, enough of that, what did you think of tonight’s “Top Chef” premier? Of course, I’m having a much harder time being fully invested because there’s no hometown chef this time around, but it does seem to me that the show is continuing their trajectory of getting better and better quality contestants every time. I also liked that the first challenge was about basic knife and kitchen skills – last season I was appalled at how few chefs knew very basic things, even after four or five shows. Weed out the non-souffle makers early, I say.

I’m going to save my top three predictions for week three or so, but feel free to opine away. In honor of our 1000th post, I’ll be giving away one of the cookbooks I’m writing about on the blog and in next week’s Holiday Guide (it’s a good one, and expensive too!!) to the first person who correctly guesses the top three finalists. Guesses must be made by Dec 5th in the comments section of the blog. One guess per person please – I’m sure you can figure out how to cheat, but don’t. I trust you.

PS – If you want you can read Richard Blais’ blog on the new Top Chef season on Bravo’s website.

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“Top Chef,” the hit TV series that exploits the usual drama inside restaurant kitchens, has launched a restaurant finder, with reviews from the show’s participants. Atlanta has not yet made the list.

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