Corkscrew: McLaren Vale — the bold and the beautiful
Thursday, May 28th, 2009
Humble beginnings birth beautiful things. Obama. The Simpsons. Angelina Jolie. And McLaren Vale, a tiny town in South Australia with soft yet powerful wines the size of J Lo’s insured ass.
Tireless pioneer Thomas Hardy planted grapes in McLaren Vale around 1840 and winemaking in the region thrived, until the turn of the century when exports dried up and the demand for bulk port swelled. Around the 1960’s, wine tourism revived the area, stimulating renewed interest in table wines, especially the full-bodied, rich reds made from the Vale’s 100-year-old shiraz, grenache and cabernet sauvignon vines. Now, its comeback complete, McClaren’s wines have burrowed into my spirit.
McLaren Vale’s graceful, feminine wines are known for soft tannins, intense berry ripeness, and fruity, perfumey aromatics. According to Nick James Martin, assistant winemaker from d’Arenberg Winery in the heart of McClaren Vale, they achieve this finesse with good draining, sandy soils, cool nights and a consistent climate. In addition, most wineries farm the land sustainably, shunning fertilizers and tilling under, although they don’t promote these practices on the label. “It just makes sense for the soil… helping us make the best wines we can,” says Martin. Yangarra Estate, in northern McLaren Vale, takes their land responsibility one step further by using biodynamic techniques, bringing a holistic viewpoint to the vineyards.
Maybe the tender treatment of the soil and old-vine fruit is why McLaren Vale wines rock. Their shiraz and cabernet sauvignon are drinkable upon release, but are also capable of napping for ten years. The grenache — which D’Arenberg’s Martin calls “the most interesting varietal to work with — drinks pretty tasty too.













