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Although the origins of rice belong in Asia, it was imported by the Romans to what we now call Italy. However, it was used for medicinal purposes — to appease stomach problems and to help with fertility issues — until the 16th century, and only the wealthy could afford it. That is why many still throw rice at weddings.

Siennese born Pier Mattioli, helped popularize the eating of rice when he wrote about its therapeutic properties in I Discorsi, 1544. Rice finally hit the mainstream when, due to the discovery of the level, it could be properly cultivated.

Italian rice is a different variation than other known strains, with three main types produced: Arborio, the most exported; Cannaroli, considered the king of Italian rice and used for delicate dishes such as fish; and Vialoni nanno, a rice that is used primarily in the Veneto. As a whole, Italian rice has 3% more protein than others and is cultivated at its growing source rather than planted. In addition, it grows at higher latitudes and has a longer growing cycle than varieties in other parts of the world.

As the Venetian republic of Serenissima fell into decay, enterprising nobles left the city for new ventures. They realized the possibilities of that the Verona flats afforded. There are many clear springs in the area and the rice has a distinctive flavor due to the calcium in the rocks.

In Venice and the surrounding Veneto region, rice dishes were served as the first or primi course rather than pasta. Until the 1950’s pasta was fairly uncommon in the area. There were two methods of eating the rice. A minestrare, soup, was the most typical way, but now is considered plebian and ordinary. The risotto, a more creamy, dryer method that is eaten with a fork, has become the way that most rice is now eaten in Italy.

Like every region of Italy, those of the Veneto have their pride of food and many residents feel that except for the famous risotto alla Milanese, there are few recipes of note from outside the Veneto region. They even claim that saffron, which is used to make Milanese was first introduced to Italy by Jewish traders from Turkey who lived in Venice and the famous Milanese is really the Shabbat specialty of Risotto Giallo. Whoever created the dish. It is wonderful.

RISOTTO WITH SAFFRON
Risotto alla Milanese,
HOW TO COOK ITALIAN, GIULIANO HAZAN, COPYRIGHT 2005.

It is a rare instance where risotto is served with the meat course instead of by itself as a first course. The one classic pairing of this risotto is with ossobuchi. If you do serve them together, have the ossobuchi ready before you start the risotto so that you can serve as soon as the risotto is ready. An essential ingredient, which gives it its characteristic richness, is beef marrow. Ask your butcher or meat department for beef marrow bones.

Total time from start to finish: 35 minutes
Serves 4 as a main course or
6 served when with ossobuchi

6 cups homemade meat broth or 1/2 a beef and chicken bouillon cube dissolved in 6 cups water
1/2 teaspoon saffron strands or powder
1/2 small yellow onion
3 tablespoons butter
2 ounces beef marrow (from about 3 1 1/2”marrow bones)
1 3/4 cups rice for risotto (Arborio, carnaroli or vialone nano)
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
1. Put the broth in a pot over high heat and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to maintain a very gentle simmer. If using saffron strands, finely chop them and put in a small bowl with 1/2 cup of the hot broth; set aside.
2. Peel and finely chop the onion. Put it in a heavy bottomed braising pan with 2 tablespoons of the butter. Place over medium high heat and sauté until it turns a dark golden color, about 5 minutes.
3. While the onion is sautéing, scoop out the marrow from the bones and cut it into approximately 1/4” dice. When the onion is done, add the chopped marrow and sauté for 1 minute.
4. Add the rice and stir until it is well coated. Add about 1 cup of the hot broth and continue stirring. Add only enough broth to produce the consistency of a rather thick soup and wait until all the liquid is absorbed before adding more. After the rice has cooked for 15 minutes, add the saffron broth and season with salt and pepper. Continue cooking until the rice is al dente, 5-10 more minutes.
5. Remove the risotto from the heat and stir in the remaining tablespoon butter and the Parmigiano-Reggiano. Serve at once.

Lael Hazan, of the noted Italian culinary Hazan family, currently teaches food history at their cooking school in Verona Italy, has a bi-monthly radio show on WSLR, 96.5 fm FOCUS ON FABULOUS FOOD, and teaches for ACEC. For more information check out her family website or follow her at @educatedpalate on twitter.

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