the 941

Recently, as I walked down an aisle at the supermarket, I realized that the shelves were stocked from top to bottom, from one end to another, as far as I could see, with … tea. Not only where there many different brands, there were an incredible number of varieties. I decided some research was in order.

Tea supposedly had its origin in China, but enjoyment of it quickly spread throughout Asia. Our first occidental writings are from an Arab traveler in 879. By the 16th century Portugal had established a tea trading port, so we know that it had penetrated Europe. It took a bit longer to find favor in England. That began when King Charles II wed Portuguese Princess Catherine in 1660. British colonial influence brought tea around the world (although used in India as a medicine for more than a millennium, it wasn’t drunk there until the British established plantations). Of course, tea played an important role in the American colonies, and Kenya is now the third largest producer of tea in the world.

Japanese teas are steeped (heh) in tradition. In Japan, the tea ceremony or “the Way of Tea” is a highly ritualized and spiritual act that may take many hours and revolves around the preparation and presentation of a green tea called matcha.

I discovered that most teas used in the US for iced tea seem to come from Argentina. The drink may or may not be sweetened. However, in Argentina, one doesn’t find that much iced tea.

Tea, or camellia sinensis, is a hardy evergreen plant that grows mostly in tropical and sub-tropical climates. However, it has been grown as far north as Seattle. It will become a tree if left untended. Only the top 2 inches of the leaves and buds of the plant are harvested. During the growing season the leaves and buds form every 7 days. The tea’s type (grade) is only determined by the processing method used after it is harvested.

After they are picked, the leaves will soon wilt and turn dark. Although it is called fermentation, it isn’t the same thing as wine. How controlled the wilt and oxidation happens determines what kind of tea you get (also the price). Here is a partial list in order of which is most prized:

• White tea: Unwilted and unoxidized
• Green tea: Wilted but unoxidized
• Oolong: Wilted, partially oxidized
• Black tea: Wilted and fully oxidized.

True tea aficionados drink their tea by pouring hot water over the leaves, allowing the water to steep with the leaves for 1-3 minutes depending on the kind of tea, then removing the leaves.

Traditionally, this is done 2-3 times with the first water thrown out. The higher the quality the leaves the shorter the amount of steep time and the lower the temperature of the water. Tea bags only became popular during WWII when tea was rationed in England.

So… now I know about the history of tea. But how am I supposed to decide which one to drink? Also, what about the blends? There are a lot. Here is a rundown of some of the favorites:

• Irish Breakfast tea: Full bodied blend of several black teas. Somewhat malty.
• Usually Indian teas. Called “tea” in Ireland and drunk throughout the day.
• Darjeeling tea: From the region of India called Darjeeling. Light colored and Floral
• Earl Grey tea: Black tea blended with oil of bergamot.
• Gunpowder tea: Oolong tea that has been rolled into small pellets that look like gunpowder for a cannon. Often used in the Moroccan tea ritual where mint and sugar is added. To be proper socially, one must drink at least two cups.
• Lotus tea: A specialty tea of Vietnam. Considered of the highest quality, sometimes, lotus petals are mixed in. Used for ceremonial occasions.
• Jasmine tea: Green tea of a lesser grade than Lotus, priced so that it can be drunk daily.
• Lapsing: A smoky, strong, black tea tea. Originally from the Wuyi region of China.
• Thai tea: Cha-yen, often a strong black tea (or red tea as it is called in east Asia) to which orange blossom water or other spices have been added. The tea is then sweetened with sugar and condensed milk.
• Chai: Generic Hindi word for tea. Often black tea that has been spiced. Traditionally, cardamom, ginger, star anise, peppercorn and cloves are used. In Oregon, vanilla or chocolate is often used.
• Orange pekoe: Medium grade black tea, usually consisting of whole leaves. The legend is that it got its name “Orange” as a publicity stunt to get a warrant from the Dutch “House of Orange”, which would then give it a better price. There is nothing orange in it.
• Peppermint tea: Often a mixture of tea and peppermint. Sometimes called doublemint.
• Rooibos: Red bush tea. From Africa, often drunk with milk and sugar. Considered sweet and slightly nutty.
• Turkish tea: Called cay, it is a black tea blend. Traditionally only sugar is added.

There are many, many more varieties. Suffice it to say, the blends tend to be black or red teas with other spices added.

Lael Hazan, of the noted Italian culinary Hazan family, currently teaches food history at their cooking school in Verona Italy, has a bi-monthly radio show on WSLR, 96.5 fm FOCUS ON FABULOUS FOOD, and teaches for ACEC. For more information check out her family website.

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