Author Archive

Spirits Review: The Dalmore, a Scotch distillery with a wide range

Wednesday, November 4th, 2009

Dalmore distilleryThe Dalmore is a classic name in Scotch — located way up in north Scotland, just past Inverness and the Highlands — but one that has received little credit here in the colonies over the past decade or so. With a change from Jim Beam to a new marketing company, and an alliance with big daddy Southern Wine and Spirits for distribution, The Dalmore is trying to change its image here in the States.

Which is why I found fully-kilted Richard Patterson — Master Blender of The Dalmore’s parent company Whyte & Mackay — in my office, pouring much of The Dalmore’s line. Although most Scotch distilleries try to maintain a “house style” that’s consistent through the years and across different varieties, this was different. Each pour opened up a whole new range of textures and flavors, with a few subtle notes tying the line together.

Here’s the rundown: (more…)

The Steamy Kitchen Cookbook exclusive recipe: Thai-style Chicken Flatbread

Tuesday, November 3rd, 2009

IMG_2728-thai-flatbread-smThai-style Chicken Flatbread

(Read our profile of Steamy Kitchen’s Jaden Hair.)

I make my own pizza dough from time to time, but when I want to make an impressive appetizer last minute, I buy a ball of pre-made pizza dough or, even easier, a package of naan or flatbread from the supermarket. This chicken flatbread is inspired by one of my husband’s favorite restaurants, California Pizza Kitchen. When we were still dating in San Francisco, we’d just hop on the subway and walk to the CPK near Union Square. Those were fun times as many sweet nothings were whispered in my ear over a shared pizza. These days, with two loud, yappin’ giggly boys at the dinner table, there’s no more whispering! (Okay, replaced by footsies!)

SERVES 4 AS APPETIZER OR SNACK

1/2 lb boneless, skinless chicken, cut into bite-size pieces
2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon honey
1/2 teaspoon cornstarch
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium flatbreads or naan
1/2 cup Peanut Dipping Sauce (recipe below)
8 oz fresh shredded mozzarella
1 1/4 cups fresh bean sprouts
Few sprigs fresh cilantro (coriander)
1/2 cup roasted peanuts

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. (more…)

The Steamy Kitchen Cookbook exclusive recipe: Three Pea Stir-fry

Tuesday, November 3rd, 2009

three-peas-001-smThree Pea Stir-fry

(Read our profile of Steamy Kitchen’s Jaden Hair.)

My family loves peas every which way except for canned. What better way to please all than to stir-fry a combination of sugar snap, snow peas and shelled peas? Sometimes I’ll stand in the kitchen and just eat them straight out of the wok.

The peas cook at different times, so I add the sugar snap peas first. At my markets, fresh shelled peas are hard to find, so I often grab a bag of frozen peas. No need to defrost—just add them frozen right into the wok!

SERVES 4 AS SIDE DISH

1/2 lb sugar snap peas
1/2 lb snow peas
1/2 lb shelled peas (fresh or frozen)
1 teaspoon high-heat cooking oil
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
2 tablespoons soy sauce
Pinch of sugar
2 teaspoons sesame seeds

1. Wash all the peas. (more…)

The Steamy Kitchen Cookbook exclusive recipe: Lettuce Cups

Monday, November 2nd, 2009

Image_1890-lettuce-cups-am(Read our profile of Steamy Kitchen’s Jaden Hair.)

Lettuce Cups

This dish is an experience in textures and sensations…the cool, crisp lettuce cups cradles the warm filling. As you take a bite, you’ll first taste the bright, sweet, juicy mandarin orange, then the savory chicken and then the crunch of water chestnuts and the mild bite of red onion.

The best part of this recipe is that the ingredients are so flexible. You can keep it light and use ground chicken or turkey, or try it with ground pork or ground beef—it’s totally up to you. My kids love this when I substitute diced green apples for the red onion. Try to dice the vegetables into roughly the same size so that they cook evenly and are easier to eat.

To make this dish a full meal, include 1 cup of cooked jasmine rice per person. My kids like to spoon the cooked rice along with the filling into their lettuce cups.

SERVES 4 TO 6 AS APPETIZER OR SNACK

3/4 lb ground chicken, turkey, beef or pork
2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon Chinese rice wine (or dry sherry)
1 teaspoon cornstarch
2 teaspoons high-heat cooking oil
1 to 2 cloves garlic, finely minced
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
1/3 cup chopped red onion
4 to 6 fresh shitake mushrooms, diced
4-8 peeled water chestnuts (fresh or canned), finely diced
2 teaspoons rice vinegar
1 1/2 tablespoons oyster sauce
16 cup-shaped lettuce leaves (Boston Bibb, Butter head, Iceberg or any lettuce with cup shaped leaves)
One 11-oz can mandarin orange sections, drained

1. In a bowl, marinate the ground poultry or meat with the soy sauce, wine and cornstarch for 10 minutes at room temperature.
2. Heat a wok or large frying pan over high heat and when hot, add the oil. Swirl to coat and add the garlic, ginger and red onion. Fry for 15 to 30 seconds until fragrant. Add the ground meat. Cook until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Stir in the fresh shitake mushrooms, water chestnuts, rice vinegar and oyster sauce. Simmer for an additional 1 to 2 minutes until the meat is cooked through.
3. You can assemble the lettuce cups by spooning a heaping tablespoonful of filling into each lettuce cup and topping with the mandarin orange slices or you can serve the ingredients separately for your dinner guests to assemble themselves.

More options:

* Remember how I said this recipe is flexible? Raid your fridge. Finely diced green bell pepper, celery, frozen peas/carrots work great in the stir-fry. Even top the lettuce cups with chilled, shredded carrots!

* For a fun crunch, take a skein of mung bean noodles (also called cellophane noodles or vermicelli) and break it apart with your hands. Heat about 11/2 inches of high-heat cooking oil in a small pot or wok. When the oil reaches 350°F, slide a few noodles in and watch them puff up. It should take less than 5 seconds. Drain on a rack. The light, airy, crunchy bits of noodles make a wonderful topping for these lettuce cups.

* For a bit of salty sweetness, you can also dip the back of a teaspoon into a jar of hoisin sauce. Smear the hoisin sauce onto the lettuce cup before adding the filling.

Iron Jaden: The determined rise of Jaden Hair, from home cook to the celebrated author of the new Steamy Kitchen Cookbook

Monday, November 2nd, 2009

05fooddrink_feature_forweb1-1

(Look for three exclusive recipes from The Steamy Kitchen Cookbook to be posted on the941 today and tomorrow: Three Pea Stir-Fry, Thai-Style Chicken Flatbread, and Lettuce Cups.)

I first met Jaden Hair two years ago, in the drizzled, muddy parking lot of an organic farm stand. She came to my attention thanks to her blog — steamykitchen.com — which had hit the local Sarasota scene a mere six months before and had already garnered a national following. She had brought Spam-fried rice to the CL offices just because we commented on her site.

The two of us bought produce, hit the grocery store for seafood, then retired to a teaching kitchen at the now defunct Chef’s Table in Sarasota, where she whipped up Seared Scallops with Mango-Melon Salsa & Coconut Rice for our $20 Menu Challenge. I didn’t write about it then, but the scallops didn’t have a good sear, the rice was undercooked and the kitchen, by the end, was an unholy mess. A week later, I asked her to write a recipe column for CL.

Jaden has never been a restaurant chef, and never went to cooking school. Until just a couple of years before she started steamykitchen.com, in January 2007, she wasn’t even much of a home cook.

(more…)

Pig producers in Washington, crying for money from the USDA and help from Congress

Thursday, October 29th, 2009

boss_hoggAccording to this Reuters article, “Hog producers have lost, on average, nearly $23 for each hog marketed since September 2009, ‘and things look bleak going forward,’ said NPPC president Don Butler at House Agriculture subcommittee hearing.”

You might want to blame this porcine problem on idiots who believe that they’ll contract H1N1 from ham, but the National Pork Producers Council website actually says that the industry has lost $23 per hog since September, 2007. What? Amidst the greatest outpouring of love for the humble pig by restaurant chefs, television food celebrities and people like me, pig ain’t selling?

Actually, sales haven’t been the real problem until recently. Grain prices started rising dramatically during the international food crisis that started a couple of years ago, thanks to the rise of environmentally unstable bio-fuels. And that grain makes up 60 percent of the cost of raising a hog, according to the NPPC. Add in a ban on U.S. pork imports by China and Russia — ostensibly because of H1N1, but more likely political maneuvering — and the industry suffers.

Why, you may ask, should I care? (more…)

Strawberry, Chocolate Cream, or Fermented Cabbage? Dunkin Donuts stuffs their dough with kimchi in Korea

Thursday, October 29th, 2009

dunkin donuts kimchi donutAlright, maybe the recently launched Dunkin Donuts Kimchi or Lentils Curry Croquettes aren’t exactly donuts, per se, the fundamentals are there: stuffed, fried dough. And they take a spot right in the middle of the rest of the company’s sweet stuff.

Imagine if our domestic Dunkies took a more progressive stance and started offering international street food versions of their usual banal fare.

Here’s my fantasy menu: (more…)

Cheese Course: Fresh Brillat-Savarin

Wednesday, October 28th, 2009

brillat_savarinPedigree:
Created in the 1930’s, this cheese is named after the famed violinist, capital punishment advocate, magistrate, food writer and wanted man Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin. It’s de rigeur at this point to quote one of Brillat-Savarin’s famed culinary one-liners, so let’s go with: “A meal without some cheese is like a beautiful woman with only one eye.” He loved his cheese, so it makes sense that a versatile triple-creme, Brie-ish cheese like this — which is easily worked into a variety of dishes and serving styles — should bear the man’s name.Brillat-Savarin is made from cow’s milk and comes in fresh versions and slightly aged styles that develop a natural, soft rind.

Taste:
If brie, Philly cream cheese, fresh chevre, and farmhouse butter engaged in unholy procreation, they would spawn a cheese like Brillat-Savarin. It is intensely rich, but with just enough zing to fool you into forgetting that you’re ingesting a massive amount of fat. Think Boursin, but refined, without all those fussy herbs and seasonings.

Uses:
Fresh Brillat-Savarin is one (more…)

Book Review — Alton Brown’s Good Eats: The Early Years

Wednesday, October 28th, 2009

good eatsAlton Brown is an odd poster boy for the modern Food Network. His Good Eats cooking show, which debuted on the network in 1999, is quirky. Incredibly informative. Culinarily wonky, even. Not the kind of thing you’d expect from the sanitized, simplified, housewife-friendly cooking channel that counts Paula Deen, Rachael Ray and Giada DiLaurentis’ cleavage as its primary stars.

But, somehow, Brown has been able to carve out a home on the Food Network as the resident Mr. Wizard of food, perfect as the knowledgeable color-man on Iron Chef America, or whenever the honchos need to trot out someone with both credibility and charisma. Good Eats continues to garner solid ratings and the recently released Good Eats: The Early Years ($37.50), a collection of recipes spanning the first six seasons of the show, will likely be a holiday cookbook success.

Back in 2002, after three solid seasons of incredible recipes based on serious culinary and scientific principles, (more…)

How to roast Pumpkin Seeds, and 10 ways to make them taste great

Tuesday, October 27th, 2009

pumpkin seeds - ccharmon-flickr(Check out these other pumpkin recipes: Cassava Pone from Sayroo West Indian Market, Pumpkin Cheese Pie, Baked Pumpkin Pudding.)

Maybe you don’t want to the fuss of cutting into a pumpkin for homemade pie — those cans are so damn easy — but chances are you’ll be carving a jack-o-lantern for the front porch. Instead of scooping the slimy innards directly into the trash, save the seeds for a roasted treat that almost makes handling the slippery stuff worthwhile.

Here’s a basic technique to get you started, with a list of seasoning options to jazz up the seeds: (more…)