Author Archive

A Taste for Tea

Friday, October 30th, 2009

Fuji_Tea_FarmRecently, as I walked down an aisle at the supermarket, I realized that the shelves were stocked from top to bottom, from one end to another, as far as I could see, with … tea. Not only where there many different brands, there were an incredible number of varieties. I decided some research was in order.

Tea supposedly had its origin in China, but enjoyment of it quickly spread throughout Asia. Our first occidental writings are from an Arab traveler in 879. By the 16th century Portugal had established a tea trading port, so we know that it had penetrated Europe. It took a bit longer to find favor in England. That began when King Charles II wed Portuguese Princess Catherine in 1660. British colonial influence brought tea around the world (although used in India as a medicine for more than a millennium, it wasn’t drunk there until the British established plantations). Of course, tea played an important role in the American colonies, and Kenya is now the third largest producer of tea in the world.

(more…)

Book review: Richard Wrangham’s Catching Fire: How Cooking Made Us Human

Wednesday, October 21st, 2009

Wrangham-Catching Fire (2)-1Catching Fire: How Cooking Made Us Human, by Richard Wrangham, is rightly taking the food world by storm. Well researched and documented (the bibliography alone is 30 pages long), it is also an engaging read. Astonishingly, few other writers have previously related the importance of how cooking affects the nutritional quality of food, therefore enabling human beings to evolve.

Not only does Wrangham detail the evolution of humankind in terms of how we understood and utilized fire, he also sets his aim on the modern food system. He takes on the trendy raw food community, as well as the fast food, chemically-processed types. He argues that eating calories that are too easy to digest is now a bigger problem for many than getting enough food. His puts out a clarion call to understand how food is actually processed in our systems.

The book itself begs to be read in a group format; I kept wanting to discuss passages with the author or fellow readers. Catching Fire is definitely a book that will be talked about, and a must for any thinking foodie’s library.

Origins of Italian rice, and a recipe for Risotto alla Milanese

Wednesday, October 21st, 2009

pestele
Although the origins of rice belong in Asia, it was imported by the Romans to what we now call Italy. However, it was used for medicinal purposes — to appease stomach problems and to help with fertility issues — until the 16th century, and only the wealthy could afford it. That is why many still throw rice at weddings.

Siennese born Pier Mattioli, helped popularize the eating of rice when he wrote about its therapeutic properties in I Discorsi, 1544. Rice finally hit the mainstream when, due to the discovery of the level, it could be properly cultivated.

Italian rice is a different variation than other known strains, with three main types produced: Arborio, the most exported; Cannaroli, considered the king of Italian rice and used for delicate dishes such as fish; and Vialoni nanno, a rice that is used primarily in the Veneto. As a whole, Italian rice has 3% more protein than others and is cultivated at its growing source rather than planted. In addition, it grows at higher latitudes and has a longer growing cycle than varieties in other parts of the world.

As the Venetian republic of Serenissima fell into decay, (more…)

Did McDonald’s Start the Slow Food Movement?

Monday, October 12th, 2009

slowsoupAmerican exports are sometimes considered the harbinger of disaster; however, American ingenuity also often provides solutions and helps create stronger products and services. For example, the export of American root vines to Europe also brought a disease called Phylloxera, which killed most of the native rootstock. The solution was to import healthy American rootstock and graft them to European vines. Today the grape vines of Europe are thriving and the wines there produced are the world leaders. The import of American fast food sense had a similar impact on the Italian food community.

The year was 1986, and McDonald’s had just opened its 9007th store, in the heart of Rome. The 425-seat restaurant, the largest McDonald’s in the world, was considered by some to be the first sign of the “death of Italian cuisine”. (more…)

Black thumb edible gardens in Florida

Wednesday, September 30th, 2009

obamagarden-1
Creating edible gardens is now the rage! Even the White House has one. Creating an edible garden becomes a feast for the eyes as well as taste buds. It can be both economical and healthy. As Michael Pollan pointed out in his NYTimes editorial, “the American way of eating has become the elephant in the room in the debate over health care”. Growing what you eat can help you live long… and maybe prosper.

Michelle Obama

Except… I have a black thumb. At our house we try to grow things. We buy small herb plants, especially basil, and hope they will grow into large ones. Sometimes we even plant seeds, but are usually only successful in growing tall weeds in pots.

Every few months we get excited about the prospect of growing our own food (more…)

Giuliano Hazan cooks with the stars: An inside look at the Today Show

Wednesday, September 23rd, 2009

today-show-food-and-wine(Click here to watch the video of Giuliano Hazan on the Today Show.)

Security in New York is serious business. The city is still exciting, the energy stimulating, and the pace can give you whiplash. But the access is gone. Just try and get into the Today Show set and you run a gauntlet of security that makes airport TSA feel like a walk in the park.

before the shoot

Giuliano Hazan, my cookbook author husband, had been invited to do a return segment for the Hot Chef segment on the Today Show on September 10th. As usual, there was a walk-through the day before to make sure that everything he might need would be on the set. Just to get to that walk-through we had to go through two buildings and run the gamut of security. First we passed through a gaggle of onlookers waiting for some star to come down from the studios. We had to give some VERY big security guys the secret code (we are here to do a segment on Today) and finally received clearance to go through the doors to the next security station to get our pictures taken. Even before we could get there we had to explain to other security people what we were doing. Finally, we stood in line to get our names crossed off an OK list, and have our pictures taken for a temporary id.

With our precious badges affixed to our lapels (more…)

Olive Oil: What’s an EXTRA virgin?

Monday, September 14th, 2009

like_a_virginSlluuuerrp.  Slluuurp. A controlled intake of air and oil into the mouth are the only sounds you hear from the serious olive oil tasters when they are concentrating on finding the ethereal flavors of the best extra virgin olive oils. In Italian, the technique is called strippaggio, and it helps the fragrances of the oil reach the olfactory organ. Because it is possible to chemically disguise other oils and “pretend” that they are truly extra virgin, teams of taste panels evaluate olive oil for its texture, taste, and aroma.

What does extra mean? Unless you are Madonna, how can you be a “like” a virgin? Extra virgin refers to olive oil that has no more than 0.8% acidity and is obtained from the first pressing of the olives. “Extra Virgin” is a great marketing ploy. Doesn’t it make you stop and go huh? (more…)

An ode to meatloaf, with recipe

Friday, September 11th, 2009

meatloaf-eddieThe ultimate comfort food! It is economical, easy to make, and satisfying.  What more could you want from a dish?  A worldwide phenomenon, there are meatloaf recipes from every country from Europe to the Philippines.  The origins of meatloaf are lost to history, although a variation of the dish, ground minced meat patty, was known to ancient Rome.

Meatloaf became “America’s comfort food” after the industrial revolution enabled ground meat to be processed and sold at very low cost.  It didn’t catch on quickly (most meatloaf recipes are after the 1880’s).  But companies selling the meat as well as home meat grinders started to give away recipe books.  American marketing skills, as well as the need for families to stretch their budget by using the cheaper ground meat with filler, took hold.

Everyone has their favorite recipe. (more…)

The “true” story of pasta by way of parable, with a simple meat sauce recipe

Tuesday, September 1st, 2009

Once upon a time, there was a king who had a beautiful kingdom, wonderful weather, and basically anything he wanted. But he was bored.  This king loved food. He woke up thinking of food, spent the day eating food, and went to bed planning his next meal. His very clever chef tried to anticipate his lord’s desire and prepared one dish after another. But he only had so many elaborate recipes in his repertoire and the king grew tired of flambé, pig on a spit, and Chicken Cordon Bleu.

One day the king’s heralds announced, ” here ye, here ye, whoever shall find and prepare a dish that pleaseth his royal majesty, shall be given a dukedom of their own!”  Well, of course, everyone in the kingdom (more…)

Random Food Questions: 3 yeast packets, 10 hot dogs, “natural” flavors, and all the tea in China

Wednesday, August 26th, 2009

As I wander through the grocery store, immersing myself in the complex challenges of one-ply or two, I am sometimes struck by food non-sequitors. Here are four questions that I couldn’t get out of my mind, and the answers to my random food thoughts. Enjoy.

The questions.
I’m not the first to ask this question; although, judging by the amount of “net noise” it apparently it has been asked for over 50 years.

Why, do hot dogs come 10 to a package while the buns come in packages of 8?

Meatpackers sell by the pound and most hotdogs weigh a tenth of a pound. Buns are typically baked in eight roll pans. I have no idea why the manufacturers haven’t gotten together on this. But if you need them to come out even purchase five bags of the 8-pack buns and four of the 10-pack hotdogs. Time for a Labor Day cook out!

Why do yeast packages come in threes when all you need for most recipes are two packages? (more…)