By Matt Brunson

JULIE & JULIA
***1/2
DIRECTED BY Nora Ephron
STARS Meryl Streep, Amy Adams

No question about it: Nora Ephron gets a bum rap from both critics and moviegoers, who often disparage her as if she were Hollywood’s female equivalent of Michael Bay (and Bay at least has the sizable fanboy demographic in his corner). Certainly, she deserves a lot of heat for foisting such turkeys as Mixed Nuts, Lucky Numbers and that lamentable big-screen Bewitched on our unprotected heads, but geez, let’s not forget that she’s also the writer of such accomplished pictures as Silkwood and When Harry Met Sally… Of course, it can be argued that all of her best work is well over a decade old, and what has she done for us lately?

Julie & Julia, that’s what she’s done. Working overtime as writer, director and producer, Ephron has taken a pair of books — My Life in France, by Julia Child with Alex Prud’homme, and Julie & Julia, by Julie Powell — and combined them into one irresistible motion picture. It’s a film that rises two stories, on one hand focusing on the legendary Julia Child (Meryl Streep) as she begins her journey toward becoming one of America’s greatest chefs, and on the other following Julie Powell (Amy Adams) as her idea for a blog — cook all 524 recipes in Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking in 365 days — eventually leads to fame and fortune.

The Julia Child segments of the film are magnificent. As the towering, exuberant Child, Streep delivers another astonishing performance, never lapsing into mere caricature but steadfastly making sure to capture all facets of the woman’s personality. Child is a wizard in the kitchen, but she’s also revealed to be a best friend to the world around her, sweeping up everyone in her whirlwind of oversized emotions (which tend to be on the cheerful side 90 percent of the time). The movie is so reverential toward Child — and Child herself is easily able to laugh at her own flaws — that when a clip of Dan Aykroyd parodying Child on Saturday Night Live is shown being watched by Julie and her husband (Chris Messina), it actually takes on the stance of a homage rather than a spoof.

The best parts of the Child sequences focus on the marriage between Julia and her husband Paul (Stanley Tucci, reuniting with Streep on the high heels of The Devil Wears Prada). A mild-mannered diplomat, Paul encourages and supports Julia’s culinary aspirations and is always happy to remain out of the spotlight even as his wife’s fame takes hold. Movies aren’t normally where we turn to watch happily married couples in action, but the Julia-Paul relationship is one of the most blissful seen in years, and Streep and Tucci dance through their interpretations with the grace and chemistry of an Astaire-Rogers routine.

When compared to the Julia Child portions, the Julie Powell chapters aren’t nearly as compelling, but they’re far from the drag that others have suggested. Admittedly, the more I read about Powell, the more wary I am of her (she seems like little more than a publicity hound with some highly dubious notions on how to advance her career), but at the time when I had screened the movie, I knew next to nothing about her, and it seems unfair to penalize the portrayal after the fact. So within the context of the picture, Julie’s tale is charming, and it’s aided immeasurably by Adams’ typically likable performance in the role.

Two-time Oscar nominee Stephen Goldblatt (Batman Forever) was brought on board to shoot the picture, and while most of the film looks good, it can be assumed that the photography of the food probably took precedence even over the actors. As in Babette’s Feast, Eat Drink Man Woman and Big Night (another foodie flick with Tucci), the camera gazes so lovingly on each prepared dish (even the burnt ones!) that it’s virtually impossible to exit the theater without wanting to head immediately to a gourmet restaurant. That, then, is one of the beauties of Julie & Julia: While other ambitious movies are content targeting the heart and the mind, this one adds another palatable layer by also going for the stomach.

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The Web version of Creative Loafing has, lately, been launching tons of new features. So, what’s the latest new thing to hit Charlotte.creativeloafing.com? A new food blog — dubbed Eat My Charlotte!

Available at www.eatmycharlotte.com, Eat My Charlotte is CL’s first big foray into the world of food blogging.

Eat My Charlotte is helmed by CL’s long-time food critic Tricia Childress; she’s joined by online producer Priscillla Tsai and a host of other local food writers. Together, they’ll be bringing you the latest Queen City food news, event information, chef interviews, recipes and random weirdness every single day … well, actually multiple times per day.

So, look, go check out the blog at www.eatmycharlotte.com and see what we’ve got going on. And stay tuned — we’ve got lots more food-related news coming soon. In the meantime, visit Eat My Charlotte!

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* At the Duke Mansion, 400 Hermitage Rd., Executive Chef Mark Shook is teaching an “Elegant Sunday Brunch Cooking Class” on Monday, March 9, at 6 p.m. Recipes include Blood Orange Mimosas, Apricot Almond Scones, Prosciutto and Goat Cheese Strata, and Dark Chocolate Raspberry Pie. $40 per person or $65 per couple, plus tax. 704-714-4400.

* Sonoma Modern American, 100 North Tryon St., is hosting a Fisher Vineyards dinner with winemaker Whitney Fisher, including the Rose of Syrah and Hidden Terrace Syrah, on Thursday, March 19, at 6:30 p.m. $100 inclusive of tax and gratuity. 704-332-1132.

* The Wine Vault is hosting a four-course dinner at Ratcliffe’s on the Green on Monday, March 23, with wines from Willm Gentil Pinot Gris, La Ferme Côtes du Rhône, Daniel de L’ansee Sauvignon Blanc, Les Jamelles Cabernet Sauvignon, and Les Jamelles Merlot. $58 inclusive of tax and tip. 704-548-9463.

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Give up the soda pop.

The estrogen-mimicking chemical BPA, already banished from baby bottles and frowned upon in water jugs, has now shown up in significant levels in soft drinks.

Tests by Health Canada scientists revealed the highest levels were in energy drinks, the often caffeine-loaded beverages that have become popular with teenagers seeking a buzz and athletes chasing a quick pick-me-up. But the study also found the controversial compound in a wide variety of ginger ales, diet colas, root beers and citrus-flavoured sodas.

Bisphenol A was detected in 96 per cent of soft drinks tested, in quantities below regulatory limits. But a growing body of science suggests the chemical may have harmful effects at levels far below those limits.

Read the rest of this Globe and Mail article here.

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* Soon to open is The Lodge, 7725 Colony Rd., in the space which was once the successful Oneo followed by a succession of Colony Grills. Veteran restaurateur J.D. Duncan of Bonterra, Mac’s Speed Shop and Las Ramblas, is opening the store with his partners. Executive Chef Blake Hardwick has designed the menu to include primarily burgers and friendly “casual” food. The place has been transformed with dead mammal heads, pheasants, and hunting guns; hence the name. Donny Anderson will manage.

* Kilimanjaro Restaurant & Lounge, 3001 Independence Blvd., is celebrating the Second Annual Ghana Independence Day and Afro Caribbean Celebration on Friday, March 6. No charge before 11 p.m.

* Wolfgang Puck Carolina Bistro, 5349 Ballantyne Commons Parkway, is offering half price on pizzas and wines by the glass from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. daily until April 15.

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* Pewter Rose Bistro, 1820 South Blvd., turns 21 years old on March 8. In honor of that event, the eatery will host an official birthday party at 7 p.m. with complimentary hors d’oeuvres at the bar along with drink specials and live music. Also offered is a $21 prix fixe menu from March 8 through 21 that will include a choice of soup or salad, an entree (beef stroganoff, chicken marsala or scallop stuffed flounder) and a choice of a glass of wine from the cruvinet or a dessert. 704-332-8149 or www.pewterrose.com.

* Rooster’s Wine Bar, 6601 Morrison Blvd., is hosting a wine dinner with winemaker Guillaume Gonnet, featuring Robert Kacher’s wines, on Tuesday, March 10, at 7 p.m. The cost is $75 (includes tax and gratuity). On the menu are cured foie gras, frisee, and brioche with Font de Michelle Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2007; sea scallops, sweetbreads, oxtail ravioli, and celeriac puree with Font du Vent Cotes du Rhone Villages “Notre Passion” 2005; rabbit loin with parsley mousse and Font de Michelle Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rouge 2005; and smoked palmetto squab and truffled foie gras stuffed squab leg with Font de Michelle Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rouge “Cuvee Etienne Gonnet” 2005. 704-366-8688.

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* ZINK: American Kitchen, 201 N. Tryon St., will host a five-course Highland Brewery Beer dinner on Thursday, March 5, at 6:30 p.m. On the menu will be crispy polenta salmon with Gaelic Ale; horseradish-crusted Niman Ranch strip loin with Kashmir IPA; charred bacon-wrapped Carr Valley cheddar with local honeycomb and braised endive with St. Terese Pale Ale; and bittersweet chocolate torte with caramel corn ice cream and caramel sauce with Mocha Stout. $48, plus tax and gratuity. 704-444-9001.

* Noted on the Crêpe Cellar Kitchen & Pub website is the countdown – including the seconds – to their opening. Owners are Paul Manley and Jeff Tonidandel, a Davidson alum. Crêpe Cellar will open in late March at 3116 N. Davidson St., NoDa.

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• Pewter Rose Bistro, 1820 South Blvd., is offering an on-going RVSP Wine Dinner for $59 per couple, including a bottle of wine. In addition, their adjoining nightclub Tutto Mundo has launched a new bar menu that includes 12 items for $7 or under, including Chicken Sliders and Lamb Lollipops.

• The Olde Mecklenburg Brewery opened its new 15,000-square-foot-brewery at 215 Southside Drive in mid-January. Jon Hayward, a founding partner, said his brewery will produce “full-flavored ales and lagers brewed in the centuries-old tradition of Germany.” The company’s initial brew, called OMB Copper Altbier, is authentic Düsseldorf style amber ale that undergoes several weeks of lagering after primary fermentation. Tours of the facility and the tap room will open April 1. Customers can take home fresh beer in 36- and 72-ounce decorative glass containers called growlers that can be brought back to the brewery for refills.

• To celebrate the 2005 BelnerO Sangiovese di Montalcino, The Capital Grille is offering a five-course Italian-fare dinner for $49 per person from Feb. 23 to April 5. Menu highlights include Porcini Mushroom Soup; Swordfish Roasted inside Parchment Paper with White Wine; Herb-Marinated, Dry-Aged Tenderloin; and Black Truffle Mac ‘N’ Cheese.

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If you have fillings, beware: These bars are oooey-gooey sticky deliciousness. The recipe comes from the back of the Betty Crocker Oatmeal Chocolate Chip cookie mix bag (yes, this not from scratch; it is semi-homemade. Shhh, don’t tell.) The most difficult part making these bars was unwrapping the 35 caramel candies — a tedious task. With all the caramel and chocolate, these bars go well with a tall glass of milk.

So, you will need:

1 bag Betty Crocker Oatmeal Chocolate Chip cookie mix
1 egg
1/2 cup butter or margarine, softened
35 caramels
1/4 cup milk

And then…

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Grease a 8×8 or 9×9 pan. (And grease WELL, these suckers are sticky.)

Stir together egg and butter. Stir in cookie mix (dough will be stiff). Reserve 1/2 cup of dough. Spread the rest of the dough in the pan.

Bake for 15-20 minutes until crust is golden brown. Meanwhile, microvave caramels and milk for 2-3 minutes on high, stirring after every minute.

Spread caramel mixture over crust. Drop reserved dough in blobs over the caramel. Bake again for 15-20 minutes. Cool completely before cutting.

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For Valentine’s Day, Cafe Monte, 6700 Fairfield Road, offers the regular menu or the $40 per person Chef’s Tasting Menu ($60 with four wine course pairing) which includes Watercress Salade with Port Poached Pear; Shrimp and Artichoke Crepe; Tenderloin Roulade with Oven Roasted Tomato, Spinach and Goat Cheese; and Chocolate Raspberry Mousse Cake or Creme Brulee. Live jazz every Friday and Saturday.

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