Second Helpings: ‘Top Chef’ – Simple vs. Contrived
August 31st, 2009 by Richard Blais in Food mediaIn Episode 2 of “Top Chef”: Las Vegas, there were a few obvious, spirited political issues included in the plot. One was whether or not a girls versus boys challenge is sexist. And of course the legalization of gay marriage.
You’ll all be glad that I’m not going to discuss those issues in this column. OK, well, for the record, I think people should be able to wed whomever they want.
But, what I felt was the biggest controversy of the episode was the comment made that the boys’ food was “contrived” and that mass appeal is as important as the judges’ opinion.
These are both issues I take pretty seriously. The former is an issue we battle every day in my kitchens.
I’ll be honest, I’m fed up with the whole “simple, easy, casual” food camp, versus the, “conceptual, creative, plated” food opponent. It’s a silly debate. And I’m willing to bet that anyone who says, “I just cook simple food and plate it simply”, is defending their lack of artistry or their experience in conceptualizing dishes. It’s an excuse.
If contrived equals beautifully presented, tight and tasty food, I’m on team contrived.
Its like the Notorious B.I.G. versus Tupac feud within our industry. With, for the most part, the West coast playing the role of the simple, unpretentious dish, and the East coast the highly designed crowd. I’d say that’s accurate of the rap war as well. Biggy was more of the technical lyricist.
Regardless of your stance, the fact is, “Top Chef” is judged by highly-respected chefs and personalities, who, as they stated in the episode, have eaten thousands of versions of everything.
In order for a tuna tartar, a gazpacho or a chips and salsa to stand out, it has to be more than delicious. It must be thoughtful and inspired. It should also display artistic vision and speak to the soul of it’s creator.
I have no doubt that chicken wings and lamb chops, for instance, are delicious. But they’re common. And common equals average. Which equals middle of the road (at best) on “Top Chef”.
And that inevitably takes us to the rationalization that the viewers heard in this episode. And that we hear every season. That, well… the guests enjoyed it. So take that Tom! Harrumph!
The guests should enjoy it, duh. Could you imagine a designer on a fashion competition show saying to a judge… “well, the model said it was comfortable” !?!
Old Navy won’t win, place, or show you on “Top Chef”.
It is this type of thinking that breeds mediocrity in our industry. That food only has to be good enough. It’s the attitude that perpetuates the appearance of the ubiquitous chicken entree. The burger at a non-burger restaurant. Soup du jour. And even bread service. Really, think about it. Why bread to start the meal in 95% of fine dining restaurants? Do you start your meals at home with a selection of breads and butter?
Of course, in the real world of business there’s a balance. And sometimes compromise is a grilled shrimp or crab cake. I don’t suggest neighborhood chefs to all storm into their owners’ office and proclaim its me or the artichoke dip. But for Top Chef, I would suggest caring about presentation. And cooking for the judges.
August 31st, 2009 at 4:14 pm
This is really good, Richard. Your point about starting a meal with bread was something I never thought about, but you’re right, I certainly don’t do that at home. And really, if you’re a chef who’s trying to be, if not groundbreaking, at least inventive, do you really want to begin your service the same way they do at Olive Garden?
August 31st, 2009 at 4:30 pm
But if you are attempting to stand out, why would you serve people the way they serve at home? Besides, bread service is like a pacifier for the customer. Bread service helps maintain some control in the chaos of serving many people at once, as most people soon become difficult if they don’t have something to stick in their mouth within the first minutes of sitting down. If the chef cares anything about the construction of a dish, the first course probably won’t be hitting the table that soon.
August 31st, 2009 at 7:14 pm
I’ve never eaten your food; but, having read your occasional pieces here, you’re a pretty good writer.
August 31st, 2009 at 11:03 pm
First off, this is my first blog post ever.. but since I am on the Blais Trail lately, and I cant resist a chef who references BIGGY and Tupac (both my favorites by the way)… I couldnt resist…
But I totally agree.. I am not a chef, nor am I on Top Chef.. and that is for a reason.. because I cant do KICK-ASS food, I can only do normal, everyday things that make me happy. There is nothing wrong with what I make, but it will never land me on Top Chef. These people are cooking for 100 grand, so even it is a soup or burger, whatever.. it has to be KICK-ASS, new and creative. On the shows finale every year, they always say “Is this dish worth $100,000?” Thruth be told, they should be saying that all season…So whether its Tupac or Biggy, it better be bangin’!!
’nuff said.. (that was the rapper in me)
September 1st, 2009 at 6:15 am
You’re exactly right, Ant! If I’m having a party, I can go to Costco and buy the frozen mini-quiches and the frozen cream puffs, and as a matter of fact, the guests will enjoy them, especially if there’s plenty of alcohol available. But I can’t call myself a chef on the strength of that, let alone a top chef! “Simple” can be a fine concept (I remember the praise for Elia’s roast chicken a couple of season’s ago) but it shouldn’t mean “ordinary” or “unimaginative”!
September 1st, 2009 at 8:59 pm
Chef… great job! to put it out there, I am in China sales. My competitors and I see it every day… The glassware guys see the same thing, and so do the flatware people and the seating people, etc… ESPECIALLY in this economic environment, cutting back to things that will “get the job done” aren’t good enough. The dining guest, with the help of Top Chef and the like, expects more – MUCH MORE than he or she ever did before… and the restaurants are all too often serving $100 bottles of wine out of cheap, heavy, rolled-edge glassware or serving a $48 entree on a $2 plate… the gastronomic experience is meant to be a show… it’s meant to excite ALL of the senses… so yes, I agree that the food needs to look, feel, smell different…. better… not just “good enough”… but the presentation doesn;t just stop there… I hope more Chefs follow your lead and think about the theater thta is involved in putting on a dinign experience… leave the guest with a “wow” and he or she will return and gladly pay the price to see the next act of the show… it’s heart-breaking for me after 12 years in tabletop sales (having sold glassware, china, flatware, etc.), to see how many restaurants are cutting corners on those items… imagine “Entourage” without Turtle… every good show needs its supporting characters and the same is true on the theater of the dining room…
just my $.02
September 4th, 2009 at 1:07 am
Well said Blais, I’ll be checking out your writings more now for sure – keep on doing what you do!
September 24th, 2009 at 2:31 pm
I think you boil it down rather perfectly. You do, however, neglect to point out the obvious. MAKE GOOD FOOD. There’s nothing wrong with a simple dish – if done right, it can be exquisite. But a simple dish done RIGHT requires a lot of skill and craft. I think a good example of this is a simple pulled pork sandwich. Sure, you can get them at lots of places. But without a doubt, the best one you’re ever going to have is the one where the cook devotes himself totally to the craft. Even amateurs, if they take it seriously, can create a mouthwatering experience of unparalleled virtue. But they have to do it right. They have to know what they’re doing, and they have to inject love and care into the process. It takes the proper selection of meat (which most places/people don’t do), followed by brining, a well-developed rub, and 10+ hours of devotion during smoking (with the right wood and carefully maintained temperature) to make it JUST right. It’s simple, but it can also be perfect. REALLY good simple food will never be easy.
In other words, the problems with the ubiquitous chicken entree, the burger, or the artichoke dip aren’t the actual menu items, but the lack of care taken to make them. The problem is IN the ‘ubiquitousness.’ They’re on there because they’re easy, and challenge neither the cook nor the diner. These items can be done in a challenging way that shows true devotion to craft, but it’s rarely seen. When it IS seen, though, it’s a dining (or, for that matter, cooking) experience that I really do enjoy.